If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| Hello, Everyone. I still own the bicycle I received as a Christmas present in 1967... a Schwinn DeLuxe three-speed sting ray. It had the stick shift, hand brakes, white-walled tires, and was blue in color. It is in pieces now, however it is all there, and was in working condition when disassembled thirty years ago or so. I would like to completely restore the bike from top to bottom, and bring it back to its original, showroom condition. Does anyone out there know who does re-chroming of bicycle wheels, handle bars, seat stays, etc. Also, where is the best place to look for Sturmey-Archer three-speed rear hubs, in case mine needs re-built? Any sources for brake cables, and banana seats? Thank you very much. |
| ebay is a good place to find those parts |
| You can contact Pete Aroson at Hyper-Formance stingrays for your paint, decals, seat & other things. www.hyper-formance.com |
| Go to www.schwinn.com, then click on "Heritage." IT is loaded with people buying, selling and trading original Sting-Ray parts and whole bikes. It's often cheaper to buy a new part than to get one rechromed. |
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| What are your thoughts on using chrome spray paint for fenders and handlebars and such? Personally I fear it will look fake and cheap. Anyone ever done it and gotten a good result? |
| I've never seen any type of spray paint work on chromed parts. It always looks bad and I would not recommend it. |
| That's kinda what I figured. Dang. So does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to clean and polish chrome? |
| Use copper wool with the Menotomy mixture sold on this site (or use oil). Don't use steel wool. It will cause rust. When you've copper-wooled as much as you can, use a rag and some Simichrome. This is the best and safest method I've come up with after much trial and error. If the chrome is badly rusted, use various grades of sandpaper to get it smoothed down and then use the simichrome. |
| I have used chrome spray paint. the only kind I have ever found that doesn't look like grey paint when dry is rustoleum. (make sure it is chrome) I would never use it on fenders, handlebars, or anything else that large unless there was absolutely no chrome left at all. It seems al right for the ends of pedals, nuts and bolts, and other small parts as long as the major chrome parts of the bike are in decent shape. It is similar enough that their shine tends to hide its lack there of. But it is a blatent fake on the larger parts like handlebars, sissy bars, fenders, etc. If you would like an idea what it would look like check out my JC Higgins in the Balloon forum. Those metal components were bare metal not a crumb of chrome left. I want to rechrome at some point so I painted them to help preserve them in the mean time. |
| If you do use spray paint, you may want to put some in the lid or soemthing and use a small paint brush to apply. This seems to work best on the smallest components. |
| There is chrome paint now on the market that is advertised as 99% chrome like. I have seen pictures of it and it is really good. The only trouble is that you must apply a absolutely perfect black hand rubbed finish to the part and then use the product. It is expensive. Auto Craft Inc in Springfield Ma. (413 739 5624) has information on it. They have not sold any though, as it is very expensive. If the counter man doesn’t know what you are asking for, ask to speak to Ron. |
| Chrome or silver spray paint is going to like what it is; metallic paint. There is no substitute for electroplating. The closest I have found after being a sign painter for over 35 years is chrome mylar. This is available through any sign supplies outfit. The only drawback is it doesn't conform to anything but flat or straight round tubular surfaces. It doesn't bend or stretch much, even with heat,(a hair dryer). The next best thing if you want it to conform to curves, is silver or aluminum leaf. Aluminum is cheaper and won't tend to tarnish even after being clearcoated with a quality clearcoat, i.e. automotive enamel. Leaf is also available with gold size (the stuff that makes the leaf stick to your surface.) Best to get a book about gold & silver leafing at your local library or crafts, or sign supply store. GOOD LUCK! ......Toby |
| I have a '55 Indian Scout that is in great condition. I've located appropriate grips, saddle, and pedals for it, but since I plan to use it as a townie, it will need new tires before too many miles. The current ones are good, but significantly cracked around the bead. What options are there for finding EA3 tires? I see that harris carries a few models, and I'd like to find something other than the kenda type tires that seem to be the only ones availble. If it had a slick tread, was fairly correct for the bike, and was good enough for evertday use, I'd be a happy camper. Reccomendations on model and where to purchase (internet is great) are highly appreciated. |
| The tire that I use is a Specialized Tri-Sport 26 X 1 3/8. It has a FLAK JACKET PROTECTION label on it, and is rated for 80 psi. I have a set on my '52 Indian Scout, my '54 Norman sports and a '56 Triumph sports. They work and ride very well. I ordered them from my local bike shop. The last time I ordered these tires was about 3 years ago. I hope they are still available. Try www.specialized.com |
| I just checked the website and they still have them. They are listed under the size 26 X 1.0-1.5. |
| I have just unearthed my old Quinn bike ,I had it resprayed many years ago by Chas Roberts and didn't ,at the time try and get any transfers. Can anyone help either with transfers or a contact'Thanks in anticipation Tom davies |