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Archived: Restoration Tips





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   How to remove the hanger cup and head cup posted by: Alec Binyon on 6/10/2005 at 1:46:50 AM
I'm restoring a ladies Shelby Flying Cloud. This is the first time I've tried to restore a bike instead of just throw one together for fun. I need advice on the best way to remove the hanger cups and head cups to prepare the frame for painting. Thanks a lot. I'm new to the hobby and I just want to make sure to do it right so I can do the bike justice.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   How to remove the hanger cup and head cup posted by laffingirver on 6/14/2005 at 7:24:15 PM
so i dont know if this is 'acceptable' by any means, but heres what i do. slide a piece of wood down the frame and grab the cone with it. then tap the wood with a hammer alternating the sides in a 'cross' pattern, up, down. left, right, and so on. slowly the cone will loosen and pop out. make sure to use wood and not metal so you dont scrach, ding or do any other permanent damage to the parts.




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   rust+paint, "Hiawatha 'Silver Chief'", and remaking old bike saddles posted by: Emily on 6/9/2005 at 2:42:12 AM
Hi all. OK, I just purchased (for $10) a Hiawatha 'Silver Chief' single speed bicycle. It seems to be in pretty good shape, though as it's currently in bits I haven't put air in the tires yet so it may need new inner tubes. The problem is that it's COVERED in rust. I've been doing the WD-40/coke+aluminum foil thing, which works OK on the chrome, but what about the painted bits? Also, where do I get touch-up paint for the pinstripes? And does anyone know anything about this sort of bike? I like it and plan to have fun fixing it up, but am not overly concerned about 'value'. That said, I don't want to destroy anything for no reason. Also, the seat was in the worst shape of the bike, came completely to bits. I think I can re-cover it, since it's just the padding and cover that went, but wanted advice. Has anyone done this? Furthermore (sorry this is so long) the bit of the fender under the headlight has rusted so much that the chrome is gone for about a 1/2"x4" strip. I can't afford re-chroming right now, how should I prevent it from spreading so I can go ahead and use the bike? Clear nail polish, maybe? Thanks in advance.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: rust+paint, posted by Adammit on 7/16/2005 at 4:56:43 AM
I know this is late coming but 3M makes an automotive rubbing compound which is somewhere between a paste and a liquid you can get it at an autoparts store. Put some of this on a rag and it works wonders I've cleaned a bunch of frames this way (though 500 grit wet sands do wonders too.) after that use some turtle wax to shine up the thing/ protect it from the moisture that caused the mess to begin with.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Chopper decals posted by: Chris on 6/4/2005 at 6:57:15 PM
I have an old 1977 Murray King Kat chopper bike that I am trying to restore. Was wondering if anyone had any good tips on where to find replacement decals. Thanks





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Monark silver king? posted by: Richard on 5/28/2005 at 5:13:05 PM
I just came upon a monark Bicycle and was wondering if any one
has info on them? the decal say's silver king but the tank say's Cornet not sure if its orginal but it's colors match:red ,white,and black. I was unable to find anything like it. I whould like to see a pic or Know what year it was made. also it has an electric horn I wanted to repair it but have had no luck so far does anyone know an outlet?





RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   touch-up paint posted by: steven on 5/15/2005 at 1:03:23 AM
I have just purchased and old single-speed bicycle at a thrift store(circa 1950, manufacture unknown-not important to know.) The bicycle is a brillant red, a very becoming color indeed; the problem is that in several places on the frame, the paint has lifted exposing a bare surface. I am considering to apply automotive touch-up paint, can anyone comend or condemn this plan? If it is a bad one, what is an alternate course of action? Then what sort of polish/protector should I use? Thank you for your time.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: touch-up paint posted by Stacey on 5/19/2005 at 12:35:35 PM
Try nail polish Steve. There are many benefits to this. It's usually a laquer type of paint. This will enable you to build up the layers to match thickness. It comes in MANY colors, which should provide you an exact or near exact match. It's cheap, so you don't break the bank if you don't get the color right the first or second time.

Once you get the color and the thickness built up, and its had plenty of time to dry, you can lightly dress it down with some 1200 wet or dry paper (used wet) on a felt block and polish it up with polishing compound. Followed by a good wax job for the whole bike. Done right the touch-up should be indistinguishable at three feet.

Good luck!




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   re-chroming posted by: Erick on 5/14/2005 at 8:30:43 PM
I have a 86 Hutch Trick star frame and fork that I would like to get re-chromed. I can not find anyone that will even talk to me about chroming a bike. I also have rims and hubs that I want to get redone also. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: re-chroming posted by Levon on 7/23/2005 at 8:24:19 PM
Any chroming shop should be happy to do these things. If they aren't they're screwing themselves out of business and it's their own fault. Ask around at a auto or motorbike shop. Anyone who has restored or fixed something chrome will probably tell you where they did it and if the shop was worth going to.




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   decal clean up posted by: Fred DeMetrovich on 5/8/2005 at 1:18:22 AM
While working on a 70s Schwinn with nasty looking but complete decals, I tried some hand cleaner with pumice on the decals and could not believe how well they cleaned up w/out damage.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   decal clean up posted by Peter on 5/12/2005 at 1:18:23 AM
Simple Green is an incredible product as well. After cleaning the bike, putting a coat of car wax on (just follow the directions) will keep it shiny for several years.




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   cleaning posted by: Priscilla Campos on 5/4/2005 at 1:43:01 AM
Hello, I am a fist timer on this web site.. I have just purchased an Apollo mini bike. Not sure when it was made as the silver sticker is torn. I purchased it because of the old banana seat and rear flat bed on the back... Any way I can clean the body with out hurting the stickers and paint? And also, it has a red cap between the handle bars that looks light a light?? any help will be appreciated... Thanks!! Priscilla





RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by: Nigel on 5/3/2005 at 12:25:24 PM
I have just spent the weekend rummaging through my parents' garage and came across a pair of Raleigh bicycles (his and hers) which belonged to my grandparents - almost certainly pre WWII, possibly 1920s or 1930s (probably in good working order before being put into store 50+ years ago) - a Sunbeam Twinky child's tricycle given to me for Xmas in about 1964 (a gorgeous thing when new but much abused over the following 10+ years then abandoned with a broken brake and wobbly but not buckled front wheel), a Triumph Rodeo boy's bike c. 1967 (very rusty and with a mouse's nest in the saddlebag but otherwise seemingly sound), another small child's bicycle of late fifties/early sixties vintage with small wheels and very fat tyres, and a virtually unused Raleigh Esquire man's bicycle from the 1970s.

Rather than buying myself and my children new bikes I am quite keen to get at least some of the old ones back into action - the newer Raleigh, the Sunbeam trike and the Triumph bike in particular. I live in London, UK and have never restored a bicycle before. Grateful for any advice. Would also be interested in any views about the older Raleighs and whether they would be worth restoring.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by Peter on 5/12/2005 at 1:21:13 AM
If it is available in the UK, Simple Green is a non-toxic degreaser (sold everywhere in the US) that is invaluable to restoring old bicycles. Soak everything in it for a few hours, it will come out looking like new. I also recommend being careful when disassembling the head, wheel hubs, and crank, because that vintage typically used loose bearings. Don't lose any, because you will need every one for reassembly!

Good Luck.

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by Nigel on 5/12/2005 at 12:41:14 PM
Thanks for the advice. After minimal maintenance I am now riding the 1970s Raleigh to get to work (clad in a suit not skin tight Lycra) and it seems fine. The three speed Sturney Archer hub gear is a joy. At the traffic lights I leave all the super fit youngsters with their fancy 30 speed derailleurs standing.

   RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by kim on 5/13/2005 at 12:04:23 PM
Nigel, you've just summed up what is so great about the old english 3-speeds, You sit upright and you can wear a suit when you ride one.

   RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Getting Started posted by Sally on 6/14/2005 at 11:06:46 PM
Did you find a source for 'Simple Green' in uk? I am in UK too and am restoring a Triumph (circa 1938 I think) and would like to get hold of some.
I cannot find a number on the sturmey archer hub though so I am not sure of the real date.
It s very close to rideable, though :)




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   head badge posted by: meg on 4/29/2005 at 4:46:13 PM
I want to powder-coat an old bike frame and I assume this means removing the head-badge. How do I do this and how do i re-attach it afterwards?


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   head badge posted by Peter on 5/12/2005 at 1:12:00 AM
The badge is probably riveted on. Option 1 is to remove the head set, and file down the portion of the rivet inside until the badge pops off. A Dremmel will make short work of this. The other way (if you don't have a dremmel) is to drill out the rivets, using a bit that just fits inside the rivet. In either case, unless you have a tactical rivet gun, you will need to reattach the badge with small sheet metal screws. I recommend using stainless steel. If you don't want that, call local bike shops to see if anyone can re-rivet the badge on. If it is held on with an adhesive, just use a hair dryer to heat up the badge, and the adhesive will eventually give way.

Good Luck!




RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Old tandem parts interchangability posted by: jay on 4/27/2005 at 7:23:53 PM
Hi! I just picked up a 60's - 70's Schwinn Twinn. The frame is good, everything else is in tuff shape. Do all bikes have the same sizes when it comes to where the fork bolts in? I would like to take the fork assembley from a Huffy or some Walmart bike and just slip it in. Same with the crank bearings. It would be nice if all bearings were the same!!


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Old tandem parts interchangability posted by Peter on 5/12/2005 at 1:17:12 AM
Unfortunately, Schwinn was its own animal during that era. Nothing you can buy today will be interchangeable. I would guess that it is not in as bad of shape as you think it is, unless the metal is actually bent. If unbent, use Simple Green on painted parts (and for degreasing bearings), and chrome polish on chrome parts. If it is bent, look for a doner Schwinn of of similar vintage to pillage the parts.

Good Luck!

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Old tandem parts interchangability posted by Peter on 5/12/2005 at 1:28:08 AM
FYI, I just restored a 1972 Schwinn Twinn Last year. It is in great shape, except for the wheels. Let me know if you find a line on some replacement rims, please!

Thanks!

   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Old tandem parts interchangability posted by Ed Lang on 7/22/2005 at 3:27:35 AM
Dont use SIMPLE GREEN on bearings! Put some old junk cones into simple green and see how badly it etches the metal! Use low fumes paint thinner. Simple Green is great for other cleaning. Ed Lang




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Help posted by: Jennifer on 4/19/2005 at 8:24:15 PM
I just found my old bike... great memories. It's a Schwinn and it says Hollywood on the chain guard.

My poor bike had been left under the eves of my parent’s home and it's in bad shape. The chain is rusted and won't peddle, tires are shot and it needs some serious cleaning up. I don't even know where to begin. Can anyone offer any suggestions, web sites, books, etc?
Thank you,

Walking Down Memory Lane


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Help posted by kim on 4/20/2005 at 11:56:33 AM
You're in the right place!
Start by looking in the archives and databases here to learn about your Hollywood, it's age, etc.

Then get the cleaning kit they sell here. It will work well on that old Schwinn chrome.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Help posted by laffingriver on 6/14/2005 at 7:31:55 PM
yeah, this is a great place to be. but i have to say, the first place i found was a site called http://buchobikes.com the man who made the site has a walk through restoration of a schwinn phantom, from disassembly, to painting, to putting it back together. i was able to rebuild a '63 corvette using his site alone. kudos. and good luck.




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Early 50's Rudge posted by: Ron Peterson on 4/5/2005 at 6:24:05 PM
I bought on ebay last year. It's in pretty good overall shape, but I'm looking for advice on restoration. The paint is a bit scratched up. What about decals & pinstriping? Are there any guides or books available?





RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   I can't get a rusty seat post off my bike. posted by: James on 3/30/2005 at 11:15:37 PM
The seat post on my stingray is stuck. I've tried everything I can think of, any suggestions? Thanks.


   RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   I can't get a rusty seat post off my bike. posted by kim on 3/31/2005 at 1:02:28 PM
Put an old seat on the post and tighten it as much as possible. THis will give you good leverage on the seat post.

Then spray lots of WD40 or other lubricant. Tap aronud the seat post so the lubricant can make it's way down the seat post.

Let it sit for 24 hours

Then start yanking and twisting on the old seat.

Repeat until it comes out.

   RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   I can't get a rusty seat post off my bike. posted by John M. on 4/2/2005 at 2:32:04 PM
Go to www.sheldonbrown.com and click on "repair tips" .You'll find 15 ways to unstick that post! Good luck!

   RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   I can't get a rusty seat post off my bike. posted by Joel on 4/6/2005 at 8:21:54 PM
To add to Kim's instructions, you can remove the crank and invert the frame to get penetrating oil to the bottom of the post. If WD40 doesn't cut it, go to an auto parts store and get some better penetrating oil. If the oil alone doesn't do it, try tapping, twisting,... to work in the oil.




RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Schwinn Fiesta..early 60's model posted by: Bill Durham on 3/27/2005 at 12:22:35 AM
Hey..my wife has one of these and we are looking for a set of pedals. Also, coaster brake parts. Any help appreciated
thanks,
BD