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OldRoads.com
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| hi, im restoring a three-speed for the first time and would like to be able to look at a hub diagram for reference. a friend gave me her old montgomery ward hawthorne that had been sitting in a carport for about two years. the transmission hub says "333" "three speed hub F" and "usa pat 3021728", but was not working. She had been riding the bike for a few years as a single speed before storing it and said she had never oiled the hub. there are linkages between the shifter and hub, but i think there may be a spring missing. I disassembled the hub thinking i would clean and lube everything, when two small little cylindrical pieces of metal fell out. where do these go? a diagram would be awesome, but if any one can explain how to replace these pin like pieces i would really appreciate that as well. i think maybe they are contained inside the hollow bolt, because there is a space just large enough for them both to be positioned and held in place by a spring. thanks in advance kyle |
| have A three speed wheel I cant get back togather can you help |
| Hi Kyle, If you send me an e-mail with your mailing address, I will send you an exploded view of the Shimano 333 3-speed hub plus some reassembly instructions. I've only worked on Sturmey Archer hubs but the Shimano (which is what you have) should not be too difficult to put back together. Regards, Lenny |
| I also have a shimano 3-speed hub. if either lenny or kyle could send me a diagram that would be great! |
| Hi Josh, I don't have a scanner, but if you send me an e-mail with your mailing address, I will send you a photocopy of the exploded view plus detailed disassembly/reassembly instructions for a Shimano 3-speed hub. Regards, Lenny |
| Ok, I bought to vintage schwinn bikes and having fun cleaning them up but I can get the lights to come on the generator I don't know who it works or what to do. The light bulbs are good becouse I put a batt. to them. I took the little generator and laid down on the belt for my grinder to get it up to a like speed and still can't get the lights to come on. Can those be taken apart or cleaned or anything or do they commonly crap out. THanks |
| I gather, Jason, that this is a conventional single wire system, Yes? In any case 'continuity' (good connections) is your biggest issue. Starting at the generator, there should be either a screw or spring terminal on the end of the generator body opposite the roller. With a little bit of contact cleaner and some fine emery paper or a small ignition file (if you remember working on cars that had points & a condenser)and clean that connection. Youl find a like connector on the headlight shell, clean that too. Open up the headlight and make sure the switch and bulb contacts are clean. The single wire systems get their return current paths or ground through the generator and headlight mount and the bicycle frame. Make sure that you have a clean current path across all of the joints and adjustments. With that done. Using some known good wire, connect up the wire terminals from the generator to the headlight, and creat an artificial ground path with another piece of wire connected securely to the mounting points of your generator & headlight. Return to your grinder drive belt and test the system... if all is right your light should burn brightly. Now, you know it works... or if it dosen't and everything is clean and connected properly the generator is probably toasted. Solution... replacement. But, if it all works put it all back on the bike paying particular attention to ground continuity... it's what will give you the most problems. I had one case where I could not pass current throught the head bearings, so I jumpered from the headlight base to the bicycle frame to make them work. |
| I'm trying to get the skip tooth cog off of a hub, so I can put it on another..but I cant get the cog itself off. I pull the part out and theres someting holding it to another part of the hub. Sorry I'm not very descriptive, hoping someone can help me out here. Thanks. |
| I am in process of repainting a Bob Jackson road bike and have acquired a new set of decals(transfers) from the factory. These are solvent applied decals. Anyone have a good technique for installing and a recommended solvent? Many thanks |
| Ok, bear with me here. I went to a flea market in my hometown and stumbled on what I think is a cool bike--I'm just not sure exactly what it is. Here's the thing: when I bought it, the frame, fenders, and chainguard had all been painted (extremely poorly) with goopy red paint, with silver paint over all of the chrome. I figured at this point that the bike was worthless, or close to it, so I stripped the whole bike. In the process, I discovered the original stickers--but without the red paint holding them on, they fell off. All I could make out was that I have a Hiawatha bike. There was very little original paint left (what was left was emerald green with gold pinstripes). I have since begun repainting it, but I'm curious as to know what it is. The frame does not look electroforged--it's straight. The wheels are 26 by 1 and 3/8. The handlebars are actually my favorite part of the bike--they have a distinctive, almost "w" shaped curve. In addition, the fenders have a ridge that runs along the length. It's a fixed-gear one-speed. Does anyone know what I might have? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Even if the bike is totally worthless, I'm just curious. Thanks for any help you can give me! |
| Katie a hiawatha was made by shelby cycle co their is a picture of one on thie web site Bill |
| The year and model I don,t know maybe some one can help. Make- Phillips (made in Birmingham) Color-B.R.Green ? Serial#- 38775NK Rear Hub- Renak/s.s. coaster brake. # 60 40 Front Hub- S.A. Dynohub #11 60.(org headlamp and tail light) Cranks- 3pc cotter. Phillips logo chainring Rod Brakes-All org. parts stamped with England Saddle- Wrights imperial Rear rack- Sping loaded arm Fenders-Frt solid color/Rr B.R.Grn/wht tip,Phillips badge Extra- Dcale on T.T. reads "The True Temper Steel Bike" I have been able to narrow it down to pre-Raliegh or pre 50's but would like to no the age and possible worth.Should i repaint the frame and reproduce the graphics if I can macth all the colors. |
| I'm restoring a 1966 Schwinn Typhoon. Before I go to far I'd like to find where I can get the decals on the frame and chainguard. Any sources would help me alot. |
| Your may be able to find the decals you're looking for @ memorylaneclassics.com. |
| Can anyone help me????? I am currently restoring an old schwinn girls bike and I don't know the year for sure. The serial number is on the rear dropout, it is L132237. I think it is either a 1954 or 1961. I would appriciate any help I can get. Thanks -MAX :) |
| Look's like a 1958, the number chart's are on this site. |
| I bought this seemingly old twin-bar C.C.M.Rambler bicycle, and unfortunatly know nothing about it's age or how to restore it properly. I am asking myself if it's even worth restoring. It is in excellent shape,and runs like a top,though the paint is faded,and spoke wheels rusty. If anyone out their knows anything about this type of bicycle please let me know! |
| Rick, I can start with a picture of one at the following website:http://www.sciencetech.technomuses.ca/english/collection/cycles17.cfm. I don't have a lot of information on this bicycle, but I do have an excellent example of one. Mine has been in the family since new. It was purchased in Nova Scotia in the late '30's. It is very complete and in excellent condition save some rust on the chrome from spending many years in the basement. I've been told that it is not very collectable but has value because of its condition. The bicycle also has a lot of interesting pieces such as wheel adjustors that were not seen on later models. I have also been told not to restore it (other than cleaning up the chrome). New paint etc.depreciates the value. Bob |
| I'm from uK where we have SERIOUS rust issues, but I'm hoping I can get ideas somewhere!! I'm trying to remove the chainside bottom bracket ballrace from a '69 Raleigh Rodeo frame. It's rusted solid in the bottom bracket and I can't use heat as the frame is brazed-lug construction. The race is no longer usable due to rust so must come out. Anyone have any ideas? Cheers; Lud |
| Try inserting a large bolt and tighten 2 nuts against each other really tight then use a socket wrench to loosen the race. Use plenty of penatrating oil. Remember its a left hand thread. |
| Don't know if it's available in the UK, but here there is a product called "PB Blaster". Aerosol can and the stuff is about the best for loosening rusted bits. Available at auto parts stores here. Hopefully that, or something similar can be found.... Regards, Larry "Boneman" Bone |
| I found a Orange Krate Frame in a shed along whith some other accesories. Im trying to restore the bike but i cant find the rear and front wheel and tire sizes for the Orange Krate. I would also like the sizes for the springer forks, im guessing i need 20" but im not sure let me know if im wrong. Thanks alot if you have answers. |
| The rear wheel was a 20 inch 5 speed rim and the front was a 16 inch drum brake rim |
| Sorry for short notice but it took a long time to find a place. There will be a swap on August 7th from 10-2 at the Hibernian Hall in Watertown MA. 151 Watertown Street. Contact me for more info. Be there or be square. Linda |
| (Also posted - in modified form - to Vintage Lightweights) I picked up a c. 1970 white 10-speed Chiorda for $15 at a garage sale. For the life of me I can't find a serial number on the frame (I've spent a great deal of time going over and over the frame). It had a Campagnolo "Valentino Extra" rear derailleur, Campagnolo freewheel, Balilla centre-pull brakes, cottered crank, and a very nice ride. However, at the juncture of the right seat stay and seat cluster, the brazing is partly cracked. There, at the top of the braze a small "glob" of extra brazing material runs across from the seat stay to the cluster, this is cracked, but best I can see, the main weld isn't cracked, certainly there's no evidence of the stay being detached. One high-end bike dealer seemed quite insistent that I was flirting with death (and offered to have it fixed for about $350 Can. (about $275 US; way beyond my budget), whereas another dealer suggested that it was likely only a crack in the extra glob but had no impact on the structural safety of the bike. I've probably done about 400 km with it so far, with no apparent change in the crack. I have access to a qualified and well equipped welder/brazer but have no idea what sort of materials the frame might be made of, what sort of material should be used for the brazing, what I should expect to pay for the job, or for that matter if it's best to leave well enough alone, or alternatively just scrap the bike... |
| I'm restoring my 1972 Schwinn Continental. I was the first owner back in highschool! I want to get it repainted with all the decals. Can anyone recommend a shop that does great Schwinn paint restorations? Of course I could send it to them but if there is a shop around Seattle that would would be perfect! Thanks, Brian |
| http://www.cyclart.com/ Probably the best you will find |
| My questions are more of the "Frankencycle" than the "Restoration" variety. I found a single-speed beach cruiser (Chinese-made Hampton Cruiser)with 24" wheels that someone had set out for the trash man. I figured this bike might be small enough for me to haul around in the back seat of my car. Unfortunately, though, the handlebars are HUGE. North Road style handlebars like those found on English 3-speeds would help make it more portable. Would they work on this bike? Anoter question related to the portability issue: Would it be possible to retrofit the wheels with quick-release skewers? Many thanks for any help you might be able to give. |
| You shouldn't have any trouble switching handlebars, as they're pretty standardized. However, there's a difference in the hubs of skewered axles, so you'd probably need to replace the wheels if you want skewers. You might be able to find wing nuts for use on the existing axles, although that thread pitch isn't common at most hardware stores. Simplest and cheapest would be to just carry a small wrench with you. It doesn't take all that much time to do it that way. |