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OldRoads.com
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| I am the proud owner of 7 Monark bicycles, and I was wondering if somebody could please tell me why they went out of business, and when? I think they are excellent bikes and terrific riders. Any help appreciated. |
| Your best bet is by taking the bike apart and having it media blast. If you don't want to restore the bike, what you can do. Get a scrapper and slow scrap the house paint off. |
| I have to refit a five speed Suntour freewheel onto an alloy large flange Campag hub. It's the screw on-type. What type of grease or other lubricant should I apply to the threads before screwing it on. These things can be difficult to remove a few years down the track and I want to make future removal as easy as possible. Any advice/experiences appreciated. Thanks, Paul. |
| Clean the threads of both hub & freewheel thoroughly, then spread a LIGHT coat of Phil Wood Tenacious Oil on the hub threads. |
| about your qestion which grease to use: try to avoid any 'modern' Campagnolo grease: this just eats into the aluminum. you have a large flange-hub. this indicates an old model. the freewheels on these hubs were usually fitted 'dry'(no grease whatsoever). if you want to grease in order to protect the thread or likewise, try using some penetrating lubricant. the redundant amount will disolve after a short while due to the thread type the freewheel will stay on anyway. there is also a certain type of 'locktite' that can be loosened again after some time if you want to secure it all. this however seems a bit redundant. wishing you lots of succes, Teun |
| Grease is OK but I use "Never Sieze" which is Molybdenum Disulfide and some kind of oil or grease. It is water and heat proof. The oil will eventually dry up leaving a dry coat of Molybdenum Disulfide which is used in all kinds of severe applications. |
| I have an old Schwinn that has a Train Plains Automoboile name plate and has a crank with hearts cutouts in it with a double link chain.Any idea what year it might be? |
| If you look in this website under schwinn serial numbers you will probably find it,if it's a 47' or later. |
| I am a men's Schwinn Collegiate 3 (S/N: HP 525367). How old am I? A number on the kickstand: \\\317\\\ It's black with silver lettering and decals. All original parts. Thank you JJ |
| I'm looking for black spokes. I'm trying to restore my late 60's, to early 70's Western Flyer vintage cruiser. I am looking for black or colored spokes. Or even new rims. Just something new, and different. I'd take hints on where to find new stickers or any other accessories also. |
| try DT (Swiss, i think they are represented by Ritchey). they manufacture blackened spokes that look as if painted. with the advantage that the paint cannot come off. these are made in several sizes and shapes, so you should be able to find the desired items. another maker who does the same: Sapim (Belgium). |
| I am getting a Yamaha Moto Bike and it has rust on the various chromed parts(bars,fender,etc.). Any suggestions on cleaning it up? Is Quick Glo too harsh? |
| Read the pages and pages of tips here. Start with bronze wool, though. |
| Hi, I came into an old peugot road frame a while ago and built it up for my fixed gear commuter bike and was really impressed with the ride it gave me. Since then I have discovered that my frame is a px-10 circa 1970. I was kind of suprised to find out that this dumpster salvage was such a classic and also suprised by the responsive ride that a bike this old provided. So, my question: I feel that this frame has alot of life left in it and I intend to use it as an everyday bike. However I realize that it is a classic and want to preserve it until I deceide to restore it. I have alot of the original parts and it seems like a good candidate for a future restoration. The paint is quite chipped and worn in places, as are the decals. What can I do to preserve the frame while still using it as a commuter ? I like the ride so much I might invest in some frame work (rethread BB to italian, change fork, add cable stops etc.) - will this prohibit a restoration at a later date ? One further note. I commute daily in some of the worst winter conditions that the U.S. can muster. Thanks in advance for your input! |
| If any anyone knows a good place to look for a px-10 decals. Thanks! |
| I'd recommend against having the bottom bracket rethreaded to Italian, even if it's doable. Why don't you get a Phil Wood bottom bracket, which is available with French threaded retaining rings, and will survive bad operating conditions better than anything? From looking around, I'd guess that Peugeot decals, if they're available, are going to cost a bundle, as will restoration. But the PX-10 is everybody's favorite, so you'll always be able to sell it. If you restore it, you're unlikely [as in never] to recover your investment. Morgan |
| Wondering if anyone knows the proper oil to be used in the Sturmey-Archer AW Hubs.Any info would be apreciated as I am rebuilding one.Thans |
| Sturmey-Archer makes a special oil for those hubs. I don't know if it's heavier or lighter than motor oil. |
| Singer sewing machine oil! You can find it at the local fabric store. Not too much and it will not gum up. The label says "Bicycle gears" and that pal, is you! |
| hi there! i just recently bought a beat up old 1974 schwinn breeze. she's beautiful! i'm not looking to restore it or anything, i just want to clean it up and give it a bell and a basket and ride it around town. there's a lot of rust on it, and i've read older messages on how to take care of that but i was wondering how i may polish up the frame and everywhere else where there is paint. the bike's yellow, and i don't plan on giving it a new paint job or anything, i just want it to shine again. how do i polish it without removing the paint? are there any other cleaning tips to be had? this bike is really rusty and pretty grimmy, but i'm willing to put some elbow grease into it. i would appreciate any and all suggestions! THANKS! |
| Use #7 automotive polishing compound, or if it is really pitted, use light emory paper. Sounds scary, but I've brought back original paint on pitted bikes like this before. |
| thanks for the tip! last nite i went out and bought quick-glo but there are some parts where the rust is pretty thick. and it would take forever to use to quick-glo and stuff. are there any other suggestions besides using a bronze steel, which i haven't tried yet... (i'm wondering, won't it scratch the chrome?) |
| Hello Vintage Bicycle Enthusiasts, I am seeking repair for a Montgomery Hawthorne Bicycle, (original owner my dad), in the NYC/NJ area... Can anyone help me out, as I have looked all over the place and no one seems to be able to direct me to a person or place that restores "vintage" bikes. Thanks, and any info you can offer would be appreciated! Cheers, Julie Ann |
| If you want to have a bike restored, I can give you several names and telephone numbers. For comnplete restorations, call "Looking Back Bicycles" (313-729-4643), and "Timeless Frames" (419-589-9728). If you are looking for a certain saddle, call "The Saddleshop" (616-946-0944 days, 616-946-0942 nights). For grips, "Fox Grips" (937-837-8783). For perfect chrome refinishing, call "Custom Metal Finishing Inc." (616-788-4277). And to have fenders rolled or straightened, call "The Fender Doctor" (847-259-0484). Hope this helps you! |
| I recently bought a Falcon 5 speed at a thrift store for 7 bucks. It's really rough with lots of rust, but the componentry seems to be high quality (shimano gear mechanism, weinmann rims --they appear to be 27 x 1.25-- weinmann breaks, SR handlebars, stem and peddles, super maxy 3 piece cranks, ESGE spring loaded clamping rack for back, etc.) The fork has a chrome mount on the right side about 6 inches down from the top. It appears to be some kind of light mount but I'm not sure. The frame is very big. I'm about 5'8" with long legs and can barely ride it with the seat all the way down. If you have any idea what model this may be or where I may find information about this bike it would be greatly appreciated. And, of course, what you think it may be worth -- if any of you feel inclined to share your knowledge on this topic. I'd really like to know what I have and whether it's worth doing anything to other than patching the tires. Anyway, any information or leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
| It sounds as if you have a bike built for the British market. The bracket on the fork would be for a headlight, and it would have to be mounted on the right side, as they ride on the left side of the road. Falcon is an English make, but I don't know anything else about your bike, except that it's probably from the early 80s, and I'd love to see a picture of it. Morgan |
| I am basically just looking for help in making a final decision on how to finish restoring my dad's childhood bicycle....a 2 tone green with red trim -Western Flyer "Super". I rescued it (what was left) from a family barn in 1987 when I was 16. Today, the bike that I had originally planned to restore to "decent, driveable condition is now one of my longest and loved possesions. I'm now 27 and have carefully searched out and purchased everything that was missing. The only thing not NOS is the repro headlight lense. Anyway, I want advice from the experts on what paint to use...I'm not familiar with all types, etc...but I do know that basecoat/clearcoat is used alot. Is it as durable as a "baked on" finish? Acrylic, laquer, enamel, urethane are all just words to me. I am going to have the colors computer matched...i just want to finalize a type of paint. I am worried that a basecoat/clearcoat may look good initially but may "peel" like so many of the cars you see now days. Another concern is that it will be hard to touch up if ever scratched. This bike deserves to be done right...and I won't be satisfied with anything less. Also, I have the pattern of the "Super" script off an original tank....was this silkscreen or decal originally? How do I reproduce this to use on my bike? So many questions!! Who does a good vinyl seat recovering with the original "Persons" imprint? Were "double-butted torrington" spokes used on my Cleveland Welding bike? Who does the best chrome plating and should it be "triple"? Does anyone know if screws or rivets held in the Delta turn signal switch mounted on the top bar? And finally (for now anyway), does anyone have an original lense for the "3-ribbed" headlight or a set of NOS Davis Deluxe WW tires for my Western Flyer "Super" ? I have so much pride in restoring my dad's old bike...and now that I'm getting close to sending it out to have it finished (painted, chromed, etc.) I want to make sure I'm doing the best thing!! Thanks for any and all input. Brad bdt91@excite.com |
| I own a Western Flyer Super, it was 2 tone green when I got it. The tank and chainguard where chromed. The 'super' was a decal. I restored the bike in black and ivory because the tank had holes caused by battery acid and it could not be re-plated. It is by no means a 'correct' restoration. Many parts are missing, including the very rare headlight. My comment is this: basecoat/clearcoat is extremely shiny when well applied, peeling problems are few and caused more by UV reaction than application. It may be TOO shiny for a 'correct look'. I always find the clearcoat gives a plastic finish since the color is actually UNDER a coat of clear. Enamels are too commercial. Acrylic enamels and Urethane enamels are catalysed paints (paint-thinners-reactors) that do NOT use a clear coat. They can be rubbed, polished, touched up. I use this on antique gas pumps and they look very colorful but 'real'. Just my own 2 cents. Good luck on that great project. Rick See my bikes at: http://pages.infinit.net/rbacon |
| 1. Clear coat is durable and painters know how to apply it so it does not flake off. But, I also think it may be too glossy looking. However base coats of several colors are easy to use in base coats. 2. I know nothing about your bike, but I think good pictures may help. I suggest contacting: Newsletter By John 5546 Northland Road Indianapolis, ind 46208 fax 317 297 4755 He has a newsletter where questions are posted and the guys with knowldge respond. He also has a whole series of actual photographs of correct bikes. There is a small charge for a photograph. 3. Are you painting? Or having it done? If you scroll back to earlier comments either here or on ENGLISH ROADSTERS or on VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS, we had a discusion about paint regarding a bike Christopher Robin was going to do. |
| Hiya Brad, Regarding your "paint issue" , I think that there are different opinions on what is the best kind to use. You obviously want to do this resto correctly, and I can appreciate that. Some folks use single stage enamel or urethane in order to achieve a more "correct" looking finish. It's not as shiny as a base/clear will be, and will be able to be touched up easier. The technology HAS gotten better w/ those paints as well.My opinion is that there is NO reason to use old technology when restoring a bike JUST because it's an old bike, dig? By this I mean painting it with an un-activated enamel or ( god forbid) Lacquer paint. I am an auto-body repairman / painter, and what "I" like to do with my bikes is first, strip the bike using bead blasting and maybe a LIGHT sandblast on the rust on the frame w/ care not to distort or remove too much metal.I use a light coat of epoxy etching sealer/ adhesion promoter followed with a two part urethane primer. This undercoat system is good no matter WHICH topcoat system you decide to go with, and I think that it is the most important step of all. I then use base/clear paint. It's durable, easy to two-tone with, and I like to put my decals UNDER the clearcoat. It buries their edges and makes 'em look better. I don't mind the extra shiny look of base/clear, but, if it bothers you, you can have it wetsanded and buffed to dull it out a bit. This works well.Some people use a brand of base/clear called "Imron" by DuPont that is not as glossy and is designed for industrial applications and trucks. Very durable, but I personally don't use it.I hope I answered at least one of your questions. I realize that the terminology of paint systems can be confusing.Perhaps a book about autobody and paint might be helpful. One more thing....are you having the bike professionally painted?Considering your obvious care for this bike, I would suggest it, although it is very rewarding to do it yourself. Either way, I wish you luck. feel free to email me if you have any more questions. I don't wanna fill this WHOLE page up. hehe |
| NEED SOME ASSISTANCE...WAS GIVEN A HUFFY CRUISER. WOULD LIKE SOME INFO AS TO YEAR MODEL. AND ANY PARTS AVAILABLE. IT'S PAINTED BLACK ON FRAME AND REAR RACK. CONTRASTING PIN-STRIPES IN WHITE WITH CHROME TANK, FRONT RACK AND FENDERS. IT HAS WHITE GRIPS ON THE HANDLEBARS WITH WHITE PEDALS AND SEAT. TIRES ARE MELTED SO I CAN'T ASCERTAIN WHAT SIZE THEY MAY BE. IT'S IN NEED OF RE-CHROME AND PAINTING. IS THERE ANYTHING REMARKABLE ABOUT THIS BIKE? LOOKS LIKE IT HAS POTENTIAL..........COULD USE ANY/ALL IMPUT.....IN ADVANCE, THANK YOU VERY MUCH...........RICK....(HOW HARD IS IT TO RE-CHROME PLASTIC?) LIVE IN CLEVELAND....... PLEASE E-MAIL......... THANKS |
| FOUND PICTURE AT BIKEICONS. LOOKS LIKE A 64'HUFFY AVANTI. ANY IMPUT???? |
| I have a set of Huret components on a Terrot that could stand to be replated (whereas the rest of the bicycle cleaned up very nicely). But if I do so, will the Huret name end up being buffed off the components? Any experience with this? |
| It depends on how deep the rust is and how deep the Huret stamping is. Most likely, though, the stamoing will still show up after plating. |
| I need to know if using repoduction parts to change my 3 Star Deluxe Buccaneer into a 5 Star Superb is a good idea or should I restore it as is? I don't want to ruin an original 1952. Can anyone offer advice? |
| I think you'd be better off to keep it original if you want to consider future collectible value. On the other hand, if you are going to ride and enjoy it, set it up the way you like! |