Thanks
by: 71.227.78.99
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| I've added pix of an unusual hand-built bike that I am selling to my Wool Jersey page. (scroll to last page) http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/v/JOEL/ Check it out! It's a beauty! Email if interested, oldbikecollector AT yahoo.com by: 138.26.192.155 |
| More pix added as requested. http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/v/JOEL/?g2_page=3 by: 68.159.187.68 |
| I have a bike I have had for years in my parents basment and I am trying to find out some info on it. Frame: NERVEX 59 3001 022E35 #9340 JUY SIMPLEX (on rear dropouts) Cranks: Stronglight competition 170 Brakes: Mavic "RACER" Frt gear shift: Camagnolo Rear gear shift: NA Neck: PIVO Brake Handles: Weinmann Also have Campagnolo cable guide & gear changer. All of the bike looks to be from the 60's. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks by: 68.21.37.109 |
| It probably has "Nervex" in the bottom bracket shell - that's the maker of that part and possibly other lugs in the frame. If it has the maker's name anywhere, it will probably be on the down tube or on the head tube. It must be a French bike and probably good quality. Can you post some photos? Close ups of the frame would be most helpful for ID; fork crown, seat cluster, joints at the steering head, dropouts, etc. A "glamour shot" of the whole bike probably won't yield much info. Good luck. by: 216.15.114.27 |
| I will take some pics of the bike in the next few days and post them. Thanks by: 71.227.78.99 |
| Here are some pics of the frame. Thanks
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| Very good quality frame with a bad repaint. Nervex lugs thoughout; they would have been used only on a good one. I'm not familiar enough with details of French bikes. Check classicrendezvous.com and see if there's something like it. I'd guess that the frame, in its present condition is probably worth between 100 and 200. by: 216.15.114.27 |
| NOT a quality frame, more like a mass produced french cycle. If French the RH bottom bracket thread will be right hand thread, and the seat tube inside diameter will be less than 27.2 mm, possibly 26.4mm. Check the way the tubes are cut inside the bottom bracket. Do they meet cleanly? by: 195.93.21.10 |
| I dont't think that tubes going to the bottom bracket are clean fits. I will have to look at it again and will post a pic of it. I remember when I took the bike apart in 1980 there was a card in the bottom bracket with a name and some other info on it. (in French) I do not know what i did with the card. by: 71.227.78.99 |
| It must be a 3-speed bike as there isn't a rear hanger for the derailleur. Looks like a pedestrian daily rider when new. by: 67.185.23.208 |
| Most simplex gears were supplied complete with a mounting bracket with a retaining bolt that was secured under the rear hub nuts, or QR. Possibly card in bottom bracket was placed to stop dirt and grit (often from grit blast) coming down the tubes into the bearings by: 195.93.21.10 |
| Hi, I have a Raleigh Super Course that I bought a few years ago and have pressed into service as a commuter. It has upgraded derailers (with a really big jockey wheel) but it's got a Stronglight crank with cotters, which places it in the early '70s. It's super comfortable and rides so well I'd love to keep it. The left crank arm makes a clunking noise (cotter?). I've never dealt with cotters, and am really over my head here as it is. Cotter filing? no idea here. Or even where to get any. I think it might be best to upgrade the bottom bracket, and get cotterless crank arms and a new chain ring set. It's geared too high with the 40/52 so would like to get chain rings with fewer teeth, on the lower one at least. Could somebody set me on the right path? What kind of tools would I need? I believe that this uses ISO threading (it had Carlton brake hoods, before I upgraded the brake levers. Christophe clips as well. A really nice bike!). I'm really poor right now so would have to do it myself. Thanks for any help. Dewane by: 171.71.233.176 |
| Sorry it's the left crank that's clunking not the right. I'd be up for some trades if anybody wants the old levers or brake hoods, or pedals. I think I still have them around. Maybe just changing the cotters is the most cost-effective way? I've read Sheldon Brown's site and think I am up to that. by: 171.71.233.176 |
| It's always the left arm that loosens...the right applies very little torque on the axle because it's driving the chainring directly. I'd raid a bike shop for a not-too-used alloy chainset and suitable axle. Take you old spindle in for reference. Use the same cups with new bearings. This should get you out the door for less than $20. If you want to gear down, try to find a wide range Suntour freewheel. I think they went up to 34 tooth. That will be easier to find than a smaller double chainset and a 4 to 6 tooth increase on the rear gives you much more range than 6 smaller at the front. Try pressing the cotterpins out with a c-clamp and a socket. Failing that, brace the bottom bracket with a piece of wood and whack the pins out with or without a drift. Just don't hit the frame. If you can't find a crankset, ask here. Someone likely has one. by: 24.215.84.13 |
| Thanks for the advice, I'll do that. I banged in the cotter and it didn't help much, I've been riding it like this for a while and I probably cut a groove in the spindle. The biggest one I've see so far is the Shimano Megarange, but it's hard to find one that's not cassette (I think they call it freewheel?). I know of an old place in downtown San Jose I'll check for the Suntour. by: 70.132.19.227 |
| I'm surprised that so many Super Courses have survived with the original cottered crank. It was the one weakness in an otherwise-excellent bike. (I have two!) I would suggest looking for one of the many cranks of 110mm BCD. (There are always lots of such cranks on eBay.) These permit a smallest chainring of 34 teeth. Screw-on freewheels of 14-28 are still available, and the combination would bring you low gear down quite nicely. by: 216.231.41.50 |
| Loose cotter pin is unlikely to damage the axle, more likely to stretch the hole in the crank, making a loose fit and putting more strain on the new cotter pin. The cranks were made of soft "steel" rubbish. I used to be able to bend them just by pedalling. by: 195.93.21.10 |
| can anyone give me some info on an elswick chinook ie date made rre or not i cant find any info anywhere please help cheers by: 88.106.53.20 |
| Here's another Schwinn Super Sport (1972) - it sold for $260. It looks just like mine. I don't have any upgrades on mine, though - it's pretty much all original. I haven't taken it on a significant ride yet. I've been taking out the 1972 Sports Tourer instead. It is a really cool ride. I have been pleased at how it rides - and I have enjoyed riding it. I think I should take the Super Sport on a ride - maybe tomorrow. I'm thinking about listing it on ebay - because I sure could use the money. I have a nice Sports Tourer from the same year - so I could easily part with the Super Sport. Do you think I should list it? Here's the link for the one that recently sold on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330252294357 I don't know if the link will work - but at least it has the item number. by: 74.235.34.9 |