If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I was given an old Panasonic Sport 500 that had been under a house for 8 years. Frame not too bad, but it's definately a low end gaspipe. Alloy stem and dia-compe clone brakes and steel everything else. Tearing it down now and sorting it into two piles. One to keep, one to toss. Any ideas on what to do with it? Was struck by how well Panasonic built the frame even if it's gaspipe. by: 66.245.122.30 |
| A long-time OldRoads contributor has suggested we add a new Discussion Area devoted to Club Bikes. Would there be any interest in this? Please email your thoughts, or add them to this topic. Thanks, Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com by: 70.19.185.81 |
| Club Bikes are my primary interest for following the VLW Discussion Area so I would definitely be interested. However, the frequency with which we discuss Club Bikes within the VLW Area is not so overwhelming that a separate Area is required, in my opinion. Plus, I enjoy the breadth of discussion this general VLW Area generates. I'd follow both Areas if they both existed, but I don't think its necessary to branch off at this time. Just my humble opinion. -Bryan in NH by: 71.233.230.218 |
| Thanks for the suggestion, Vin, but I think we can still cover Club bikes under VLW for the time being. Keep up the good work with your website; I enjoyed watching your PBS "Antiques Roadshow FYI" clips. by: 66.185.168.82 |
| All prices are negotiable. i need to get rid of this stuff asap. if your interested or need pics email me at sickcycles@optonline.net local pickup on long island,ny welcome or will be at hightstown,nj bike show next week. 75 shipped for all thanks mike 1)schwinn Stingray wingtip chainguards. top is original violet. the bottom is a red repaint over campus green. $10 each 2)yellow schwinn stingray guard. later models. earler repaint.$15 3)Raleigh chopper MK1 pedals. good chrome. end caps pitted. good rubber $7 4)Ross apollo sissy bar. hard to find. good chrome has scratches. nice for rider. $15 5) sturmey archer drum brake 36Hole. comes with stop clamp $50 shipped 6)50's Monarch springer forks.$15 7)'75 schwinn stingray 1 3/4 Slik for S7. almost NOS $15 8) nice schwinn racer guard from a '66. original screen. $7 by: 69.123.134.135 |
| I sometimes read about the danger of the AVA stems. How do you identify one, and are there any other VLW parts that we should avoid due to danger of premature breakage? I collect to ride, and I would prefer not to get killed in the process. by: 71.233.230.218 |
| Any AVA stem or handle bar that I have seen has AVA pantographed(embossed) or engraved on it. I have found these components to be very light and that might be the reason they are prone to failure. As for other "death parts", I believe the Lambert front fork is also prone to sudden and complete failure but I cannot remember for sure. Best advice? Do not use the AVA stuff for anything but display and don't just display what you collect(an opinion, of course). by: 216.211.3.67 |
| I reassembled components (after a frame failure) onto an old Japanese frame. The old chain was worn out so I replaced the chain with a old [but unused] one and installed a new Sunrace 5-speed freewheel. I find that on the smallest sprocket the chain annoyingly snaps over some of the teeth on the next cog which are not all straight. This must be some feature for easier shifting. Should I find a different freewheel? Use a different chain? ??? by: 65.78.2.207 |
| If your small rear sprocket and/or the chain is worn, then chances are the chain will skip when on the smallest rear sprocket. The smaller the arc of contact(size of a sprocket and number of teeth engaged) the more prone it will be to chain skipping. The solution is to get a new chain and a new sprocket(freewheel) or find the original chain that was matched to the sprocket(temporary fix). But to make the problem go away, new on new is the only way to go. Hope this is a help. by: 216.211.3.67 |
| I'm using a NEW (NOS) chain with a NEW cluster. It's NOT skipping, but there's some interference from some of the easy shifting doodad innovations on the cogs. It's a five-speed normal width cluster and a chain that was, I thought, the right one for this. My Q is: should I use a different chain (which?) or a different cluster (NOS but old) or what? by: 65.78.2.207 |
| Make sure that the chain's not binding where you joined it. If you have a very small shifter or some long-nosed pliers you can bend the errant teeth straight by: 62.7.148.78 |
| David, dump the modern Hyperglide-ramped Sunrace freewheel, and pop on a Suntour or Regina with no ramping. Use a generic 5/6 speed chain (or dig up a nice Sachs/Sedis chain), and you should be good to go. Bottom line IMHO: Hyperglide belongs with indexing. -Kurt by: 64.12.117.14 |