If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| What is a Randor?? I "found" a 26" 10 speed with Roots front derailleur. Thanks by: 170.158.40.25 |
| A couple of more tidbits--- back deraileur is Sunrace,10 speed, who made the Randor bicycle? by: 72.226.158.65 |
| A 26" ten-speed is the 1970s equivalent of a $69 x-mart mountain bike. If it's rideable, good luck finding someone who will ride it. by: 209.7.184.147 |
| whatever... there are a couple floating here in Austin texas that are dope. they have kickass frames and if you can find one keep it!!!!!! by: 69.150.57.59 |
| What is a Randor?? I "found" a 26" 10 speed with Roots front derailleur. Thanks by: 170.158.40.25 |
| »¶ÓÀ´»ª¶«º¼ÖÝÎ÷ºþ£¬ÎÒÃÇΪÄúµÄÎ÷ºþÂÃÓÎÌṩȫ³Ì·þÎñ¡£ by: 61.152.169.27 |
| Get a life...stop posting garbage. by: 70.51.164.178 |
| Re. Sepp Fuchs: Sepp (short for William in Sweizer-Deutsch) Fuchs was a pro for the Swiss Cilo Team in the seventies. Winner of I think Ghent-Wevelgum ( my spelling is atrocious ) Has a bike shop in Zürich. I lived down the street and used him for parts and to occasionally borrow a tool. Very good guy - doesn't speak a lick of English. He still rides. The frames with his name on them are made in Italy to sell out of his shop. Decent stuff. BTW - I have some very nice collector bikes if anyone is serious about purchasing. -a complete pantographed Colnago, early seventies, one of the best I've seen. Never crashed (brake levers are perfect) - 55 cm c to c. Rather expensive yet very rare and beautiful - pretty much the model Merckx rode before going over to DeRosa. Also a couple ICS frames, again a Swiss Company now Kaputt that built in Italy. Finished tho' never even painted. I bought them from the factory as it was all ending. These are from the nineties, OS thin-wall Columbus with the columbus 'D' crown fork. Best steel frames I've seen beyond the cache of owning an old Masi Special etc. Regards by: 68.126.189.39 |
| I'm trying to rehabilitate a '66 Raleigh Carlton frame, and when I mounted a Shimano 600 crank onto the Shimano UN53 cartridge bottom bracket, put on my rear wheel with a 7 cog megarange freewheel, and laced the chain up I noted that the chain when on the low ring rubbed on the high ring in the two smallest gears on the freewheel. What can one do to adjust the chainline to minimize this? At first blush I'd want to extend the chainrings out a few millimeters, but that's not feasible to my knowledge. If I could space the bottom bracket cartridge out a bit maybe... by: 209.74.182.122 |
| Your choices are: 1) Shim the drive side of the cartridge. Downside: potentially asymmetrical Q factor left and right. Grinding of chain in large-large combinations. 2) Insert a spacer on the right side of the rear axle and redish the wheel. Downside: increased dish -> weaker wheel. 3) Don't use the small-small combinations, except for storage. Downside: lose one or two of your 14 gear ratios. 4) Use a larger inside chainring and/or a smaller outer chainring. Downside: higher low gear and/or lower high gear. My top preferences are 3) and 4). by: 66.185.168.82 |
| Well, I'm changing everything. I bought a Sakae SR triple crankset and will be going to a 6 or 7 speed freehweel, 11-28. Now I've got a problem with figuring out my chainline so I can buy the right BB. Same problem all over again. Jesus... by: 209.74.182.122 |