|
OldRoads.com
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com |
| I would like to take advantage of the vast information-sharing capability of the internet to help generate a database of changes Peugeot's UO-8 has seen over its production run, and to develop something of a system by which these models are dated. I have two UO-8s that are generally similar but several differences do exist; I'll compare them below. If you have a UO-8 please throw in your two cents as well. s/n 2179538: known to be '71 or '72 (from owner). Serial number stamped into metal strip riveted to underneath of bottom bracket. Front forks fully painted (i.e. no chrome). AVA Al stem and steel bars. Rigida Chrolux 27x1 1/4" dimpled steel rims. Atom hubs front and rear. Front axle secured by two large "wing-nuts," rear is secured by standard nut. Foil Peugeot decal on head tube. Mafac "Racer" centrepulls with red plastic bushings. Nervex steel cottered crank. Simplex plastic/metal shift levers (on downtube)and fr. and rear deraileurs (stamped into rear = "71 4"). Lyotard all-steel "rat-trap" pedals. ADGA "28A" saddle. Decals as per early-mid '70s style on PX-10 Database site. s/n 1578363: As above except: serial number stamped into outside of left rear dropout. Bottm half of front forks chromed. Pivo Al stem, unnamed steel bars. Normandy hubs front and rear (into rear is stamped "P43 74"). Chromed steel Simplex quick releases, fr. and rear. Plastic Peugeot headbadge riveted to front of head tube. Non-stock deraileurs. Ideale "39" saddle (not stock?). AFA steel toe-clip/Lapize leather straps. Anyone else? |
| c. 1970-3: both: single shifter boss on downtube UO-8: QR hubs, half-chrome fork (your SN 1578363) AO-8: no QR, no fork chrome (your SN 2179538) c. 1974+: UO-8: dual cable guides on downtube, for stem shifters Read sheldonbrown.com and replace those Stems of Death. |
| Hi Glen...this discussion group moves along pretty fast..and I didn't want to lose track of this thread. I can now give you a more succinct description of my bike if you like? I'm also serioulsy considering gving it its own website...I have a site for two Raleigh Super Courses ...http://quicksitebuilder.cnet.com/rwa_bby/raleighbikes/index.html If and when I do I'll send you the URL. Also after hearing me talk about my great find a workmate ran into what I'm assuming is a UO-8 at a thrift store and paid virtually nothing for it. I gave him a bit of list (as best as I currently know) of what to look for, but it will likely have to wait till the New Year now.) It sounds slightly newer than mine, but not much. It has a black leather seat which he says is ripped...brand? Also I saw two newer, what I assume are UO-8's(but still with cottered cranks)at a used bike store. One was midnight blue, I guess you would call it, and the other, orange. They seemed to have the 'ambiance' of mid '70's bikes. After my $6.00 CDN bargain, I didn't want to pay the $50 CDN they were asking...and, anyway, I've just got to stop buying old bikes,... ;) |
| Rob; A detailed description would be very much appreciated. As one of the replies to this thread so clearly showed, I really don't know much re: the lower-end models offered by Peugeot. I mean, if the main differences between the UO-8 and the AO-8 were the degree of chrome on the fork or whether quick releases were specified or not, why have two different models that essentially target the same market segment? It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me...Anyway, any info. that helps to identify changes in specs of the UO-8 (and other "lower" models as well, I suppose)over its run would be welcome. Thanks for your interest. |
| I think the AO-8 preceded the UO-8 and they rarely sold them in the same market... but that is speculation. My one example is SN # 019905...found on the left stamped dropout. I think it is an AO-8 and it is from '67 based on the decals as per the PX-10 website as well. It has Atom Hubs, Huret Wing nuts front and rear, Mafac "Dural Forge" calipers without hoods on the levers. Rigida/AGDA/Lyotard/steel bars/Nervex as expected. AVA stem but I don't think it is the "Stem of Death"...Prestige plastic derailleurs. The downtube shifters are all metal except for the plastic mini thumbscews holding them on to the single braze-on. Best of all it is a cool metallic lime green with no chrome. I think the workmanship on this humble bike to be superior to many of the better models of the 70's. |
| I worked part time at Bikecology (Supergo.com) from 1972 through 1975, when its was a major Peugeot retailer. During my tenure, I custom-assembled a bike (which we still own, along with my 1980 PKN-10) for my fiance, using a 1972 UO-8 frame, a TA Professional crankset, SunTour derailleurs and freewheel, and aluminum rims. In the mid 1990s, I upgraded a stock c. 1974 UO-8 to aluminum cranks and rims and Campy gear, and commuted on it for several years. The AO-8 was indeed introduced before the UO-8, but both were sold side-by-side during the early 1970s. (Both were listed in the Peugeot catalogue which recently sold on eBay.) The $120 UO-8, by far Peugeot's most popular model, competed directly against the slightly cheaper Schwinn Continental and the $125 Raleigh Super Course and $150 American Eagle Semi-Pro (Nishiki Competition). We sold a small number of $105 AO-8s, primarily to people who would have otherwise opted for Schwinn Varsities or Nishiki Custom Sports. The next model up from the UO-8, the $150 PA-10, intended as an entry-level racing bike, was a very poor seller in the U.S., because of the tubular tyres and 52-45/14-21 gearing. The $200+, 10.5kg/23lb PR-10, featuring a Reynolds 531 main triangle and Stronglight crankset, was more successful and evolved into the PKN-10 of the late 1970s and early 1980s. The top-of-the-line PX-10 ($260 in 1972) is, of course, a prominent bit of cycling history. During the early 1970s, Peugeot experimented with various UO-8 gearing schemes, including 50-36 and 52-36 / 14-26, before settling on the very popular 1.5-step 52-40 / 14-28. The UO-8 got sloppy Simplex stem shifters in 1974, when the single downtube shifter boss was replaced with dual cable guides, and it eventually gave way to the internally lugged Carbolite 103 frames of the 1980s. By 1980, Peugeot had also converted from French to Swiss BB threading. From what I have seen, Peugeot used very similar decal patterns across all models of a given vintage, so the PX-10 homepage, http://home.iag.net/'davidg/PX10.htm , can help one date a lesser model. I have never found a good account of Peugeot (or Bianchi, for that matter) serial numbering, except what appears on the PX-10 website, which uses my own S/N as an example: "Following a letter prefix, typically Y or B, the first number of the numeral code indicates the bicycle's model year (ex. PKN-10 #B 0667631, built in 1980)." |
| http://www.schwinn.com/heritage/classifieds_messages/18753.jpg For a Schwinn Corvette 5-speed. |
| I have a 1980 (or 81) Fuji America road bike that I'm selling to a guy I work with. It's in extremely good shape. Does anyone know the value of this bike? Thanks in advance for your help! |
| Nice looking bike. I don't know where it falls in the quality lineup of its time. Is the kickstand original or a addon? Pictures aren't bad so you guys who know should be able to get a good look. Certainly worth the opening bid and will probably go cheap. Btw I find the description kind of sad. My grandparents are long gone but if my grandfather gave me an old bike or pretty much anything else I don't think I'd put it on eBay for 1$. I also saw an old Schwinn Sprint for 10$. idn't get the # sorry. Is this a Varsity or one of the better ones? |
| I think this is the Sprint you were looking at. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1049362788 I think this is Varsity grade bike. So where did the Sprint fit in if there were already Varsities and Continentals? Here's a question: The decals are in block letters, which were used in the late 70's. When did Schwinn go to block letter decals? |
| These were made in the early 70s and are rare enough to be worth more than their Varsinental cousins. Yes, the KS is the original Schwinn built-in, and all components appear to be original or equivalent. There are a few relevant threads on the Schwinn.com collectors' forum. |
| I jumbled 2 bikes into 1 post. Apologies for any confusion. The body of my post and the KS question was about the Bottechia which is linked to my eBay #. Any thoughts on that bike. As for the Schwinn: It's an electroforged model, I presume? |
| This was my bike exactly . Down to the color. I have since made a hybrid out of it. An American Roadster. Cotterless crank setup, alloy all-rounder bars,SR stem,alloy rims, Sturmey Archer 3 speed, Wright saddle and fenders painted to match off of another Schwinn. Waiting for my Leepers saddle with springs to get in. Down to a "lightweight" 29 - 30 #. |
| This particular model is in the 1981 catalog. The '82 model was the same except it had black handlebar tape. The '81 catalog lists the Continental at $211.95, the Deluxe Varsity at $201.95, the Varsity at $191.95, and the Sprint at $166.95, same price as the Collegiate 5 speed. |
| I think the Bottechia is a lower-end, Peugeot UO-8 class machine. The crank is a cheap 3-pin with a noninterchangeable outer chainring (boo, hiss), and the front derailleur is a low-end SunTour. It probably does ride very nicely for a bike in its price class, however, and it would make an interesting beater. |
| I have an early 80's Fuji Espree. ( suntour AR derails ) I've had the bike for sometime and would like to know its value since I might be upgrading. ( about time ! ) Its serial # is as follows..............SC330147. Would someone be kind enough to educate me on reading the serial # and its value ? Feel free to e'mail me or simply through the posting ! Thanks a lot, Peter C. |
| All of the details are needed...make of hubs/rims/brakes/bars/stem/tubing stickers and the condition of all of these items. Unfortunately, even in excellent condition you may not get a hundred bucks or so. There were some top models that have value because of the components rather than collectibility. You may want to uggrade and keep the Fuji as a B bike since they can be great riders. |
| Hi, I remember visiting some time ago a site that gave details and analysis of the good and bad points of all sorts of lightweights. As usual I did not do things properly and bookmark it and now I can't find my way back to it. Can anybody steer me? Thanks, Ian. |
| I would like to hear about that, as well. In the meantime, see if sheldonbrown.com, campyonly.com, or classicrendezvous.com leads you anywhere. |
| Yeah, I found it again, it was the Michael Kone article updated by Sheldon. I should have known that anything you need can be found at Sheldon's place. I also got there through "Bicycle Classics" link from BikeIcons Hot Bicycle Collectors links which is quite useful and interesting. Thanks for the help, Ian. |
| I'm sure you would enjoy my Links page at my website. All the interesting websites about lightweight bikes that I have come across are there. http://www.velo-retro.com Regards, Chuck Schmidt |
| Sorry I forgot to list your site, Chuck. For those who don't know, Chuck also has a huge selection of nice repro catalogues, including Bianchi, DeRosa, Campy, Peugeot, etc. |
| Thanks for all that, Chuck has sent me a catalogue in the past and got it out to New Zealand in record time - great service. I visit all these sites regularly, its just that I forget what I have seen where, old age or too many headers I guess or maybe its the Bourbon! |
| >>WAYNE'S WANTS LIST>>. Would like items NOS, but if unable in VG/EX condition, LMK if you are able to supply a jpg. >>BRAKE LEVER HOODS. Modolo 919 Anatomic. >>CRANKARM LH ONLY. Galli strada 170mm. NOS ONLY PLEASE. >>FRONT DERAILEUR. Gian Roberts to suit a RIGI. >>HANDLEBAR. 3ttt Record competizione? from the 80's. The bigger the better, size wise. These are the bars that have the flattened section on the top. >>HEADSET. Galli taper roller bearing, italian threaded. >>PEDALS. Campagnolo/Galli, anything italian with a black alloy cage, even track. >>RIM. 1 only ( or a pair ) Nisi solidal 36 hole tubular. NOS only please. >>TOECLIPS. Cinelli/Ale black large alloy. |
| I know this is an odd request, but does anyone know anything about a bike(or conversion kit) that has been modified to ride on railroad tracks? I remember reading something about this a long time ago. Apparently there are many many miles of abandoned or very rarely used railroad lines in the USA, and someone made a bike that fit on the rails (maybe with some kind of outrigger/training wheel that extended over to the opposite rail). It sounds like a great idea, no traffic, smooth ride, wild untouched country. Anybody who knows about this please respond. Thanks. |
| Go look for the old Sears catalogs from about 1906 and look thru them and you'll see ads for this thing that lets you ride on rails with the bike. Be sure to only ride on rails that are not being used and are set aside for this purpose or hiking trails but the hiking trails usually have the rails removed, don't they? Riding on rails currently in use and belonging to the railroad will get you into a heap of trouble right quick. The last thing you want to do is meet up with a train going 100 mph and these take like 2 miles to stop. You don't want to meet up with a Bull Ever! Not ever! (Railroad police) They call that tresspassing and they get real ugly so be sure you are allowed to do this. Any romantic adventuring you are doing and try to tell them about will just earn you scorn, and they'll think you crazy. You can't talk yourself out of it so don't do it. All kinds of terrible gangs and unsavory criminal types ride the rails today. The old days of friendly,colorful hobos are long, long gone. It's been replaced by a new breed of evil, prostitution, drugs, murders, gangs galore, kidnapping,and things you don't want to learn about. Hence the railroad police everywhere with these flashlights that can be used to dash out your brains.**** Klonk!*** Today, they probably carry night vision goggles too. So please don't get in your head to go train hopping, it's chock full of all the old dangers plus a whole host of new dangers you haven't imagined. Somebody can come up and whack you and run off and how would you find them? I wouldn't do this alone, it's too remote. Whatever device mounts on the bike has to be exact or else you'll go off the rails and if you are moving along you could get hurt. If there is a stretch of track and wherever you live has this cordoned off and reserved for bike riding on rails then go for it, but only there. I think I would rather go hot air ballooning, but if we mess that up and hit a power transmission line and get fried then it's up to see the "King of all cops" |
| I just received some Michelin Axial Select tires (700x23) that I had ordered from Bicycle Classics in Colorado.....for those interested, they were a great price at $14 for 4 or more. They probably still have quite a few left. But....I am having a terrible time getting them mounted on a set of Mavic MA40 rims. They seem a tad too small! Are all Kevlar bead tires this hard to mount? Any hints or suggestions on making this easier??? |
| I find wire bead tires to be even harder. The MA40 is a great "four-sided" box section rim and yes it uses all of it's 700c profile. I don't know what technique you use but I'll tell you what works for me. Get the tire on one side...seat the tube in the tire with a few lbs of air in it to keep it from pinching. As you get to the final stages on the other side, tuck the wheel into your waist keeping it parallel to the ground with the last few inches of unseated tire at the furthest point away from you...facing up of course. You should be able to put tremendous torque on the tire using the palms of your hands to roll the tire over and over onto the rim...bit by bit...massaging the rubber until it literally warms up and starts to go and levering the wheel up into your ribcage. Sounds dramatic eh? I've never encountered a tire/rim combo that wouldn't go on this way. |
| Thanks Warren, I finally got the suckers mounted, but there was no way they were going on by hand!! The last 10" I had to resort to using the tire spoons. I did incur a blister on my thumb in the process. I only lost 1 tube in the ordeal. :-) |
| One tube is not bad. I have an Axial in my stash...one of those orange/beige dual compound jobs. Interesting to see if it fits easily on my Open 4 cd's... |
| Bought an old Olmo that is repainted, does anyone know good sources of info on these? It came with a mix of good stuff; Olmo-labeled headset & seat coller, beautiful head-badge with star and 5 rings, Campy Gran Sport front derailleur may be original along with Universal 61 brakes. Frame has lugs with large tear-drop cutouts, rear-dropouts have scallped shape at the rear - no derailleur hanger, nor other braze-ons except brake cable rings under the top tube. Looong wheelbase, relatively light weight and nice workmanship. How to date and define? |
| Go to http://www.sheldonbrown.com/vrbn-o-z.html#olmo. Apparently Olmo is an old venerable name and it's likely you have a very nice 60's race bike. Sweet. |
| Nice! The U-61 brakes and Campy GS derailleur probably are original. It's probably about the same vintage as my Capo (c. 1960). What crankset and pedals do you have? Campyonly, classicrendezvous.com, and CycleUtah's Classics Corner may have more data for you. |
| I'm in the process of refurbishing a early 80's (crankset made 82) Bianchi. Frame is Bianchi made w/columbus/piagio tubing and has campagnolo drop outs. All parts appear to be campagnolo SR except stem and bars which are cinneli criterium. It even has a campagnolo seat? The seat is beat, anyone know anything about campy seats? Also the original wheels are missing and I'm trying to track down what the OEM wheels/freewheel were? I'm assuming more campy SR stuff but not sure. Any info anyone can offer will be appreciated. Thanks, Tony |
| Since I own a somewhat lesser Bianchi (TreTubi frame, Ofmega cranks and hubs, NR derailleurs, Modolo brakes) of the same vintage, I'm jealous. The original hubset would undoubtedly have been low-flange 36-hole Campy [Super?] Records, with a 13-23 6-speed Regina freewheel and Regina chain. I have Nisi rims, which you may have had, as well. Are you sure about the Campy saddle? I have seen lots of Bianchi-label saddles (manufacturer unknown to me) atop Campy seatposts. Good luck with a very worthwhile project! |
| John is on with the hubs. I'd add that a top of the line racer of that vintage may well have come with sew-ups. I'd say you've got a wide range to choose from when it comes to rims, unless you're seeking 100% accuracy. In that case you need to hunt around for an old catalog. The hubs are on eBay pretty consistently, not really cheap though. John's info about Regina chain/freewheel is spot-on as far as I know as well. However, if I may suggest and again if you're not seeking 100% accuracy; I have a S Record Basso and I put a DuraAce FW on it and am very happy. Far and away the best FW I've ever used and I've used most at one time or another. It is even quite a bit quieter than the Chorus/Record freehub/cassette I run on a "semi-modern" bike. The DAs are on eBay consistently (where I got mine) and while they do attract bids they usually go for less than the high-line Reginas. |
| My Bianchi was factory-geared as a 12-speed, 52-42 / 13-23. Needing a low-40s wimp gear for a few local 15+% grades, I replaced the Regina America FW with a Sachs 13-26 7-speed, and moved the Regina to my Peugeot, which I had previously converted to a triple chainring. The Sachs freewheel downshifts MUCH more quickly than the Regina, probably because of the pointer profile of its teeth. |
| Thanks for all the info everyone. I've tracked down some lowflange 36 hole record hubs and a NOS regina 6 spd. freewheel (13-23). I'm pretty sure about the saddle. Black w/campy logo on cover. No other campagnolo markings on underside, just Made in Italy. Was a REAL comfortable seat until plastic base developed a crack. I patched it a couple times using epoxy but the crack kept getting bigger, eventually had to replace it as it left me seatless miles from home a couple of times. |
| I have read of (on the CampyOnly site, I think) but have never seen a Campy saddle. They did however exist. Shame yours gave up the ghost as I gather these saddles are quite rare |
| A post up above reminded me of Velo-Retro.com. Sure enough they have Bianchi catalogs from '82, 83, and '85. If you are looking for the complete resto that's a source you might want to check out. |
| I bought at auction a Artic road bike made in France around 1970 for $.50. It sports eyelet's on the frame for touring but what caught my eye being a racing cyclist was the listing of some of Frances more popular Professional race's of that era on the seat tube. Above this seat tube sticker were the words Built by Stalls (I think). Simplex derailurs front and rear with 999 centerpull brakes. The handlebars have been changed along with the stem and seat. Original wheelset by Rigada (?). I'm thinking about turning it into a cross-bike for winter training, unless someone out there needs one of these brands to finish up that french bike collection. |
| I have never heard of the marque, but the bike sounds like a Peugeot UO-8 clone, wiht Weinmann 999s instead of Mafac Racers. Rigida rims on Normandy or Atom hubs were common. Does it have an integral derailleur hanger or any remnant of a Reynolds 531 or Vitus sticker, indicating a higher-grade frame? Since my wife seldom cycles and prefers my mountain bike over the Peugeot UO-8 I custom-assembled for her in 1974, I am converting the Peugeot into a cycle-cross bike. I found a pair of 27 x 1-3/8" knobby tyres and a 165mm Sugino crankset, and I am looking for barcon shifters. Good luck with your project. You might ask Sheldon whether he has ever heard of "Arctic" bikes. |
| I will have to look at it closer but I don't remember seeing a tube type emblem on the frame. The rear has a removeble hanger. The brand is an Arctic instead of Artic, I left out the first "c" earlier. Head badge is boxy with an "A"and an arrow thru it pointing right. Other than the headbadge the only lettering is on the seat tube. Hear is how it reads " Custom built by Stalls (?)" Tour De France, Paris-Roubaiux, Milan-San Remo, Paris-Tours,Tour of Lombardy then there is the name ARCTIC followed by Championnat De France, Championnat Du Monde, Boucle De La Seine, Criterium National, Tour De Alg(scratch)e, Made in France. Unsure of what cottered crankset I have I'll remove the rust I grime and let you know next post. Sheldon Brown couldn't identify the Brand although I mispelled the name, "Artic" instead of "ArCtic". For fifty-cent's I couldn't be happier with my purchase, whatever it might be. |
| Dan, this is the first time I have replied to anything on this site, but I wanted to let you know that Arctic bicycles were marketed back in the 70's by Arctic Cat (snowmobile company). Take a closer look at the manufacturers decal because these bikes were made in France by Stella. They made several models for Arctic ranging from Peugeot UO-8 to PX-10 comparable models. |
| Thanks Kenton, it does have a built by Stella sticker which I thought read Stalls, makes it somewhat unique being produced for Arctic Cat. |
| Coming home from work on trash day and no bikes anyplace. I thought "Where are the bikes?" I think somebody heard me because Wham!!!! Next thing, A bike!! No really, it happened immediately and it had me spooked. If I can find what I'm looking for, then I have to be asking for other things besides old used bikes! Cool or not. Lemme see, what am I itching for out there? Money? fame? power? ( Note I didn't say Women because no women is gonna let me accumulate old bikes! I have no desire to pick up somebody taking out their trash anyway and I work alone!) I don't want to squander my tapping into some power in the universe over a old bike now do I ? I have to be careful what I wish for, I just may get it! Ok, Ok, It was a Ghana,10 speed, white with ugly chrome lugs, Made in Italy with a Early Shmano 333 Lark( not the Lark W, just the Lark ) 28 X 1 3/8 5/8 steel 700 X 28 C rims, Awesome Universal brakes!( My favorite brakes maybe more than Mafac's) Alloy TTT stem that I don't like the look of. The rest is Junk except for the zinc plated Campy front derailer and Valentino front square changer thingie. ( You know what I mean, go look it up in Dancing Chain, It's late for me. The rest of the bike with it's Italian cottered bb set and double chainrings doesn't excite me and I think I will heave the rest along with that botombracket. I remember this area and this bike. I turned it down at a yard sale 5 months ago. They wanted like 20.00 for it. today it was garbage. I cried at seeing this lovely tug boat sandbox! Some child would flip for that but I didn't want to drag it home and I don't know how to give something like that away in December. Shame on me I should know by now! I will be asking at church or someplace so I won't pass over good things like this again. I feel bad about it somebody would have loved this. Ok, I said that already! I love this country more than I can express, but Oh, it bothers me to see the waste. Psychic, (or at least with some measure of social conscious) trashpicker when it comes to old bikes. That's just wonderful! I know what the minister will say. No more looking for bikes, and don't wish for things in my mind. If you tell me that it was just chance happenstance and it is a numbers game after all I passed like 500 houses I'll agree. But to make the find right after I thought this? Shiver! |
| Well, I wished too, but....nothing. I hit some of the thrift shops (it's too cold for yard sales now...will have to wait till spring) but lately....nothing. And one store....to my excitement one day...had numerous old bikes...but the prices were shocking....for a thrift store??I don't know what the deal was there...I'm not paying 80 bucks for an old Schwinn World Sport that is in crappy condition! The prices were rediculously high. And it's the same store I got the perfect condition Nishiki 12 speed for $12.99. So, I've hit some other stores....nothing! Nothing at all. Then, I thought...maybe hit some of the stores and I could find a couple of bikes ...that I wouldn't want...that maybe aren't in good condition...but that have some good components I could use. I had not really thought about that before back in the summer...I wish I had...I would have bought some "parts bikes". But now....I can't find them either! It's been a real desert for bikes lately. I've been really dissapointed. |
| You wouldn't happen to have a 26 X 1 3/8 Dunlop rear wheel, would you? Or know where to find one? Preferable fixed gear - but I guess anything will work so long as the rim matches my front rim. |
| Westwood pattern or Endrick? Is this a rod brake bike or does it have caliper brakes? Have you asked your local area shop and struck out? |
| I have no idea what Westwood or Endrick is. I don't have the rear wheel at all. I believe the front wheel is original. I was told that it used to have a fixed gear but it was replaced with a coaster brake. So, that's the only brakes it has....the coaster brake. I would like to find a Dunlop fixed gear wheel....if there ever was such a thing. I wish I could find the old man I bought it from (it was at a community yard sale in a small town...so I have no idea who it was or how to find them)I bet he still has the original rear wheel. |
| Go to http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1046470689 to see a rare SA TF 2 speed fixed gear hub with trigger. To die for... usual disclaimers |
| Thanks for posting! Note the high-low hub flange combination. This must have the same planetary configuration as an AW, but look how compact the gear housing is. |
| Go to http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1046470689 to see a rare SA TF 2 speed fixed gear hub with trigger. To die for... usual disclaimers |