If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I'm bringing back to life a '71 Malaysian-built Raleigh Sports, and I need a front rim. Does anyone have a rim only or wheel? 32 hole, 26 inches, steel, chromed-steel. SA, Dunlop, either. I have a Raleigh hub, but the rim I have is badly rusted. Thank you. by: 24.4.236.138 |
| That's funny you should ask - I have a Malaysian SPorts my wife rides - I put aluminum rims and an 8-speed hub for hilly rides. I thought it was unusual when I found it - being on the west coast, i thought someone had brought it in. Didn't realize they outsourced so early. It seems lighter than a regular Raleigh, which is why I converted it. I was trying to shave every ounce I could off the bike without changing out components. I would be happy to send you a rim for free I have left over if you could send me postage and an empty box. Check out my site for my contact info if interested. http://www.sciencemonster.net/webart/emailaddress.gif by: 70.132.6.242 |
| Someone near Kansas should save this roadster. The TA triple crankset is worth over $100. Please buy this and return it to its former 3 speed glory. by: 71.7.150.172 |
| Please give us the item # I cannot find it and would like to see this. thanks by: 209.104.139.1 |
| Was this an e- bay auction or was it someplace else. by: 64.105.106.41 |
| Bollocks! I had copied the item number and forgot to paste it into my post. I cannot find this bike today. I've searched for Raleigh, triple, TA and the current bid which was 108 dollars. It was not in the regular bike category. It's out there but the search engine ain't helping me. The current bid was $108 last night. Sorry Chris. It's really quite a pristine bike as well. Likely a 70's model. by: 71.7.150.172 |
| I talked to the guy. I had the number saved. He was selling the bike for someone else and it was taken off before the auction ended. The owner and the guy posting had a falling out. I'm going to see if I can get the guys phone number. by: 71.133.167.194 |
| Thanks for trying. It'll re-surface. I'll see it flying down the road. I'll look and see him and then again and before my very eyes the bike and the rider will disappear. When I tell you these bikes are magical, I ain't kidding! by: 66.134.149.160 |
| Hope I didn't screw up this auction for you again Jeff. Or is it a different Jeff? by: 71.7.150.172 |
| I can think of at least 4 ways to get 15 speeds on a bike. S5 with a Cyclo conversion, S5 with 3 rings. AW with threaded driver and 5 cog freewheel, 2 derailleurs and a freewheel (Yuck). How was this one done? BTW I have a custom made axle for my AW x 5. But I'd have no clue where to find another. Does anyone know if modern, much longer, SunRace/Sturmey Archer 3 speed axles will fit older hubs? Or, could you run a threaded driver in a new hub?
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| Excellent question! I don't know. My guess, right now is that........... I don't think you can marry old and new parts like that and have it work. However, a machinist can work incredible miracles. I will look at the Sturmey- Website and the technical info and suggest you do the same. by: 66.134.149.160 |
| 5 speed cog with a modern low-end derailler and TA triple crankset up front by: 71.7.150.172 |
| "I don't think you can marry old and new parts like that and have it work." I finally found my way to http://www.sturmey-archer.com/pdfs/AW_NIG_3_Speed_Hub.pdf The driver is obviously a no go. The new 163mm axle has a different part number than the old one but it looks similar in the illustration. I have a modern hub but it doesn't have the 175mm axle. I suppose the next step will be to pull it apart to see if they interchange. If so, it might still be a problem locating a 175mm axle without buying a whole hub. Maybe through the Netherlands. I want to get a look at the new driver and related parts, to see if it's possible that the new hubs could be converted to 2 speed fixed without the play you get when converting the older ones. by: 209.162.11.59 |
| Go for it and keep us posted. by: 66.134.149.160 |
| The original bike Warren was referring to was eBay auction # 320078070250. Neal by: 209.6.26.141 |
| Interesting bike, wonder what it would have gone for if the auction had finished. "5 speed cog with a modern low-end derailler" Neither modern nor low-end. That's a Huret DuoPar. by: 209.162.11.59 |
| Oops...thought it was akin to a shimano altus. by: 71.7.150.172 |
| Thanks for telling what model rear derailer it is. I could not tell. Interesting. What number and make of bottombracket? I know you all noticed that this crankset was...........cotterless! cotterless cranks is a DL1! Awesome. by: 66.51.146.55 |
| Still, for the 18 speed D.L.1. I would want to stay with 1/2 x 1/8 chain. Use a derailer that would accept it. I don't care for 5/32 chain. It wears out too soon. Today's bicycle chain is made to wear out prematurely. by: 66.134.149.160 |
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| My latest acquisition, a 1958 Raleigh Record Ace Moderne, has been returned to the road as of last week. I've posted a collection of photos and information/specs on this machine to my Wool Jersey album: http://tinyurl.com/2h29oz
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| Beautiful Peter. by: 71.7.150.172 |
| Hmmm... link wouldn't work for me. Either way, good to see Mr. Kohler is still with us here in the ether. Cheers! Larry "Boneman" Bone by: 69.39.168.98 |
| Larry, cut and past the tinyrl link and it will work, I have never been able to post pix directly to this site! P.C. Kohler by: 208.58.5.87 |
| Peter, This machine is as excellent as we have come to expect of you. Good to see your standards are maintained as high as ever. A lovely machine. Matthew - impressed. by: 82.14.69.213 |
| Ah... I completely missed the tiny URL. Mr. Kohler, that is one gorgeous velocipede. Anyone that's not yet visited the gallery, I daresay, it's Drooling Towel Material. Thanks for sharing it with us! Cheers! Larry "Boneman" Bone by: 193.38.170.65 |
| Nice stem on that cycle! Top notch, great work Peter. --Bryan by: 146.145.49.238 |
| Got a call from a guy who wants to sell me his bronze green 5speed SA Sprite real cheap (He's moving). All original (dual shifter levers,rack,fenders, B72 etc) except he put drop bars on it way back when. From the picture I saw it seems to be in good condition - hasn't been ridden in 30 years. Can I find original bars or is this bike something to stay away from. Definetly different from my '51 Clubman and vintage Italian bikes but still it looks intriguing. Ted by: 24.4.133.239 |
| I'm sure the original bars are exactly the same as the ones on your Sports model parts bikes. by: 65.78.2.207 |
| I'd get it if I were you. I had one of those once but mine was a deraillur model from 69 or 70 in that lovely bronze green. I still kick myself for letting that bike go. by: 66.97.144.2 |
| Yes, I sold my burgandy 68 Sprite. I needed the cash. I think it was a super bicycle but the Raleigh pattern rims were like rolling granite. I had installed a 22 tooth cog. The gearing was way to steep for a heavy bike. I don't think I will ever own a better looking clasic bicycle. The rims were like mirror chrome. The original shifters (on the downtube) were a distaster and kept the bicycle off the road untill I bought it. It was fun while it lasted. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| Absolutely no reason to avoid this bike, unless it's within 100 miles of Minneapolis. In which case it's probably junk and you should give me the seller's contact info so I can tell him to his face ;-) Seriously: IMHO they were great bikes, just a Sport with better transmission. The S5 ratios are closer than an AW 3 speed so I never find myself wishing for a gear between. Simpler and more reliable internal shifting mechanism than the FW 4 speed on which it was based. The FW was in production for 21 years before the S5 was introduced, so all the parts they share were throughly proven. The stem shifters are probably the only shortcoming, especially the early plastic ones. Unless you are a stickler for originality, a friction thumb shifter for the left cable and a Sturmey 3 speed trigger for the right is generally regarded as "Plan A". If this one has the bellcrank on the left you can avoid missed shifts by putting a spring between the crank and the adjuster. This is shown on the one in the back in http://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/bellcranks.jpg That one is a Shimano drilled and tapped for SA Axle threads and fitted with an SA adjuster. If you have the bellcrank as shown on the left, they are pretty much junk. But I think they went to the type on the right after the 1st year. I have bellcranks if you need one. From the factory, they were geared a bit high for most folks. Most people I know have 22t cogs on their's. I run 24s and my wife uses 26t or a smaller ring with a 22t. BTW all 4 of her bikes have S5s, as do 5 of mine. by: 209.162.11.59 |
| I bought the bike - couldn't resist. I was going to give him $35 but after seeing it, I couldn't help myself and gave him $50. Original Paint and decals are beautiful, just dirty. Original owner with probably less than a 100 miles on it. J.Bull brake pads like new and the dunlop tires hardly worn. It's a '69 according to the hub and and has top tube shifters that are a nice chrome steel. Weird solid rubber pedals and a nice B72 saddle. The drop bars got to go but its a pretty cool bike. I'll take it down to the bare frame and build it back up and I think it will look like new. Lots of surface rust but not bad. Fun - fun. Ted by: 24.4.133.239 |
| Take a look at a very nice Raleigh Folder from 1980. This is English made. 20 x 1 3/8 tires. Ebay # 300077162317. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| Hi Ed, This isn't my sort of machine but it is sweet. I still find the white rear mudguard section starnge and mistifying. British bikes didn't have the white sector after WW2, we could have bike lights and the street lights were turned back on and electrified, no need for white paint everywhere. Matthew - wondering...why? by: 86.27.56.171 |
| The white panel was mandated pre-war and remained long after. by: 65.78.2.207 |
| David, That may well be the case but not as far as the 1960's when the Twenty was introduced. My Dad's '62 Triumph never had a white tail nor, strangely enough, did a 1950 Raleigh 'All Steel' which I restored. I am willing to do some research on this one. Matthew - no white tail for me. by: 86.27.65.211 |
| The Lighting Restrictions Order 1940. This order... ran to some thirty-three articles and innumerable sub-paragraphs which everybody concerned with lighting in its various forms was required to understand ... ‘I find it impossible to believe that the regulations could not have been in a simpler and more intelligible form.’ Lord Chief Justice Caldecote criticising the regulations in 1942 The National Archives holds the documents. Record Summary Scope and content LIGHTING, Lighting (Restrictions) Order 1940. Covering dates 1939-1941 Availability Open Document, Open Description, Normal Closure before FOI Act: 30 years Former reference (Department) ARP GEN 82/139/1/2 (parts I & II) Held by The National Archives, Kew I've had a quick look about and found the above. the regulations pertaining to Blackouts which included the white painting of mudguards and extremities of road vehicles dates from 1940. The blackout was great success, without dropping a single bomb the Axsis forces were able to kill 600 British civilians every month for the first six months of the new regulations being in force. With cars driving only on sidelights and no other significant outdoor lamps allowed vast numbers of people were killed in traffic accidents, more than were killed in air raids in the same period. Obviously the white tail didn't work. Matthew - soap box preaching. by: 86.27.65.211 |
| Well, I purchased this in Canada in October. This looks like the models imported to USA. Allways the white tail. The tires were the odd thing. The wheel size allows for shorter brake arms and better braking. I have a Twenty that uses an s5 hub and alloy 406 rims. This brake set up is about the same strength as steel 451 rims. A fun ride. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| I don't remember seeing a Twenty with painted fenders before. I think it looks quite smart and don't mind the white panel at all. However those fenders are the same pattern as the 406, much wider than those I've seen on other 451s. Prefering 406 I consider this a plus. I wonder if Twenties destined for the US all had 406 and 451s were sent to Canada. Ed, It looks nice. If I didn't already have two, I'd be bidding. Since it didn't sell last week, with a starting bid of $299, what is your reserve? If it's reasonable, I'll tell some friends about it. Glad to hear braking will improve with alloy rims, as I'm in the middle of installing them on one of mine. Tectro Makes a 1020 reach dual pivot sidepull, but it's not imported into the US. P.S. I put S5 guts in the hub also. by: 209.162.11.59 |
| I know a bicycle like this sells for 300+ during the summer. Why should I get less? The last one I sold for $269.00. I would say this is the best I have laid eyes on. I would use 451 alloy rims to make a nimble bicycle. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
