If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I'm looking for Womans frame English 3 speed. 19" or 21" frame. Either; One from the '50s in good to very good condition, showing a bit of patina but mechanically sound. Or A later, brightly colored one, in very good to excellent condition. Minneapolis/St Paul Metro area only Contact me directly at mark@bikesmithdesign.com or 612-824-2372 Ask for Mark. by: 209.162.11.59 |
| What is the story behind Scott Mathauser brakes? Excellent red rubber brakes. I have a set of the alloy finned ones. Various styles and for various model brakes. What I think I know is, that they are rare now and that somebody bought him up or contributed to things changing in a not so good way or something funky. I see the Kool stop brakes offering something similar but is that compound as good? What is the mysterious story behind Mathauser? I just pick them up and save them if I find them. But I'd like to know. by: 209.104.139.1 |
| I forgot to add that it was ( is) a breakthrough product. Best brake shoes! by: 209.104.139.1 |
| I used them "back in the day" but IMHO the KoolStop Salmon are just as good for a lot less $$. Not as spiffy lookin' though. by: 209.162.11.59 |
| FYI Iron oxide makes the rubber orange. Even the old ones stop well. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| I was asking for the soap opera story behind the company. Did he sell out? taken over? International intrigue? You know, gossip. by: 209.104.139.1 |
| I saw one once about 10 years ago, and now I own one. I pulled it from the steel recycling dumpster and brought it back to life. The AW hub works fine -- of course it does. The rims were rusted, but they cleaned up fine. The paint is mainly gone; the bike now has what I would loosely call a "patina". The Raleigh-imprinted crank arms are bent AND twisted, so I replaced the axle spindle with a Truvativ cartridge held in place by the original fixed and locked cups. Shimano 600 cranks are affixed to the tapered axle. Just a little turning on the inside of the cups on the lathe (not the bearing surface) allows the BB cartridge to be held in nicely. I've look around on the 'net but haven't found anything on an English or Raleigh-built Monark. Does anyone know about his bike? Thanks by: 24.5.0.7 |
| Is this a Raleigh Sports type bicycle? I'm curious about this BB job. I'd never heard of using a truvativ BB with the original cups. Do you have any photos? I've been trying to find a BB spindle or UN72 cartridge to use with my BSA Sports that would allow me to use the higher "Q factor" cranks I've gotten used to on my new bike. by: 71.214.81.242 |
| James, This is indeed a Raleigh Sports type bicycle. Probably a contracted English 3-speed for Monark in US. I don't know. Mystery bike so far. Now, about the BB modification. I posted a brief writeup on my blog (http://bcreedmontdiary.blogspot.com/), but I'd be happy to describe in further detail how I did this. I've done it before, on a Peugeot folder that needed a spindle replacement. My email address is foodba@yahoo.com
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| I posted my scanned SA service manual tonight and thought I would share. http://sturmeyarcherservicemanual.blogspot.com/ This is the one that contains cut away illustrations of the AW and FW in each gear, otherwise little new information. by: 71.214.81.242 |
| I also have two Rudge catalogues on blogspot, a 1937 and a very colourful 1954. by: 71.214.81.242 |
| I read somewhere that new keys can be made for the locking forks on Superbes, etc., by supplying the lock number. Anyone seen this? by: 67.52.52.211 |
| What is the code number you need? It must be the N.G.N. series. e- mail me at humberchristopher28@hotmail.com by: 66.167.212.244 |
| N.G.N. Series, Number 15 by: 67.52.52.211 |
| Done. E- mail me your postal address by: 64.12.116.136 |
| Has anyone managed to find a number on their Rudge locking fork? I have pretty '57 "polychromatic maroon" Rudge sports deluxe that is naturally keyless but can't seem to find a number. by: 71.214.81.242 |
| All of my pre 1960 keyed bikes don't have the serial number, making these very difficult. by: 71.7.150.172 |
| There is a small chrome plated "face" where you insert the key. There should be a number stamped on the face of it. Like N.G.N.(whatever) on it. Even if it is the earlier series before the N.G.N. series is still should be stamped there giving the number. Anyways a locksmith can make up a working key. They file and twiddle with a blank key and soon you have one that fits the lock. look at your face on the bike and tell us again what you see. Perhaps it is very faint or worn away? I'd be surprised if there was no markings at all on it. by: 64.12.116.136 |
| No numbers on the two bikes I'm looking at right now. A 57 Sports Superbe and a 55 Humber. Not worn, just absent. by: 71.7.150.172 |
| mailed. Done! by: 209.104.139.1 |
| Warren, What I have is the set for the mid 1960's Superbes. The earlier locks I don't have anything for. You'll be with the locksmith I'm afraid. It still is weird that there are no numbers on your lock face. Thats what Raleigh did I guess. by: 209.104.139.1 |
| Doesn't matter, really. I'm locking my bikes with kryptonite anyway. It would be a nice touch but... by: 71.7.150.172 |
| As for protecting the bike from theft. You need more and the Kryptonite lock is what you need. by: 209.104.139.1 |
