by: 70.13.236.246
If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I have a 1970 Raleigh-built Hercules. The front cones are badly worn, and the parts seem to be unobtainable. Has anyone tried replacing the entire axle in the front hub with a more modern part? Can you suggest which axle would make a good candidate for this, and a source for it? My local bike shops are clueless on this. by: 70.22.22.94 |
| Raleigh front hubs have pretty small, 5/16" diameter solid axles. The fork is designed to accomodate the cones' raised edges. But hey, it's just steel. To use a bigger axle, you could file the fork ends. I usually find that the hub itself is pitted if the cones are bad off. This UK vendor sells Raleigh parts. I've never purchased anything from him. Let us know if you do. http://oldbiketrader.co.uk under Raleigh Parts he lists various axles and cones for sale. by: 216.99.240.166 |
| A Schwinn front axle retension washer works very well if you use cones that are not original. I Put the axle and cone in my drill press and grind down the worn spot with a small high speed rotary grinder AKA Dremel. It will work if you don't have pits too deep. This may change the angle the bearings track around. Not in the old groove. My secret is out! Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| I have a Triumph Emblem 3 speed bicycle. I have not been able to find any information on it. It is Browish in color and has crome fenders. Looking for possible age. Is this type of bike in demand? Thanks, Mike by: 64.12.117.7 |
| Anyone have suggestions on dating a Raleigh? I bought an old Sports from Craig's list. Here's the details: All black-painted frame with pump pegs, screw-in BB oiler, decal headbadge, "Raleigh Sports Model" decal reading up(?!) on seat tube. Hockeystick chain guard with "Raleigh" in script; attached with clamps around the tubes. No SN that I can find (BB, seat cluster, head tube, dropout?) No date stamp on chrome AW hub. SA 3-speed control w/lettering that reads when it's below the bar. Bakelite Dynohub stamped "46 5." Cable clips,etc, all black enamel - not chrome. Black body headlight and black plastic taillight. Britannialloy fenders, pump. The guy who sold it said that his father (grandfather?) worked for the importer in Boston. by: 65.78.2.207 |
| Sounds like it's an elderly machine for sure. I'm not positive but if that date code reads the same as a rear hub would, the dynohub itself is from 1946. A keeper, for certain! Cheers! Larry "Boneman" Bone by: 69.39.170.61 |
| I doubted it was that old, since the seller mentioned "the fifties," but maybe it is. Everything seems to have been in place for a long time. One other odd thing about it is the fork. It's a Raleigh tubular crown fork, but the fork ends are simply squashed and slotted; there's no separate steel bit brazed to the fork leg. The slot is sized to the flats of the Dyno axle. And it's in, by far, the best condition of the 3-speed fleet. by: 65.78.2.207 |
| Yes, this is that old indeed... the clue is the "Raleigh Sports Model" on the seat tube which dates it to the 1947 model year with production beginning in September 1946. Or just about the earliest of the post-war production. And absolutely it was exported to Boston as Britain exported practically everything it made then to recoup its war ravaged foreign earnings. You be hard pressed to find a 1946-47 built Raleigh in the UK! The Atlee Labour Govt. slapped a withering 33 per cent purchase tax on new bicycles during this period to all but guarantee exports. The serial number for these machines should be on the seat tube right near the seat post binder bolt hole. So a very nice Craigs List find! P.C. Kohler by: 208.251.223.2 |
| Pictures? by: 71.209.158.34 |
| I notice the premium road bikes often mention the weight of the bicycle. I have a hypothetical question. If I was to lose 5 pounds would that offset a 5 pound heavier bike, or is there more to it than the total weight of cyclist & bike? Seems like a lot of money for the lighter bikes. by: 67.163.118.222 |
| I've often read that the most cost effective way to upgrade your ride is to lose a few pounds yourself. When you look at the catalogs and see nearly identical versions of the same part selling for nearly double just because it is a few grams lighter, you can see the benefit of a diet for the rider. by: 146.145.49.238 |
| The wheels make all the difference. Light tires, rims, and spokes. Nothing makes for a more cost effective upgrade. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| Any weight ya can lose helps. Rotational mass is a big deal too. One of the most impressive performance mods... that was a literal kick in the seat of the pants that I did on my motorcycle... was to reduce the weight of the rider by 30lbs. ;-) One of the fellers at work... a serious racer type... just ordered himself a new "Rolling Cloud".... to the tune of $3800. Now in his case... I think if he were to lose one single ounce... he would just blow away... Cheers! Larry "Boneman" Bone by: 69.39.169.198 |
| The french used to say " a ounce on the wheels are like a pound on the frame!"
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| Look at my Hercules on Ebay Item # 7245302342. 1968 In nice condition. Did anyone see item #6630194154? I can't figure that one! Where are those bidders from? Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| I like yours but too small for me. I saw no pictures for the $350 AMF Herc. Was there something special about it? If not, a shill probably was the high bidder! I hope so. by: 65.78.2.207 |
| Well, I put mine up for $69.00. I hope I do so well. The bike most likely sold for $29.98 in 1968 at a department store next to outboard motors and lawn chairs. Happy shopping. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |