If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| still on the search for a fork for a white raleigh twenty. the one i've got has a pretty badly bent steer tube. if you have one you can part with, please post and/or email me at the address above, removing the spam harvest blocking text. thanks! by: 24.21.187.246 |
| Seven pairs of used sports mudgards,plus odds and ends that I could get in the bike box. several chaingards.Mudgards Colors are torquez,brown,yellow,chrome,green,and house paint.You pay UPS shipping cost only.I'm guessing $20 but that's just a guess.First to email me gets them---sam samclingo@hotmail.com by: 68.90.181.240 |
| Their gone!---sam by: 68.90.181.240 |
| Dreamed this one up last night: http://www.jaysmarine.com/DL1tandemsketch.jpg No, it never existed. Would love to build one, but I have doubts as to whether anyone carries a BB shell that would fit the wild convergence of tubing at the stoker's bottom bracket. Then try to find an adaquate BB spindle...perhaps use a conventional spindle made for 24 TPI and hide the incorrect crank/chainwheels under the pie-plates? I was at a loss as to how to mount a tasteful rear handlebar, and came up with this rather disgusting design - any suggestions? I highly doubt the horribly inneffcent rod brakes that I sketched out are sufficient to stop a machine of this size or weight. Possibly rod-operated drum brakes in their place? Enjoy... Take care, -Kurt by: 205.188.116.139 |
| Like this: http://greatadventuresports.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=125&SKU=FS3002 The strocker bars would work better on a tandem type seat post.It's a seat post that has a bar welded across the top,T shape in stead of old 7 shape.The rear part is square and allows for adj of the rear bars.This wouldn't be too hard a kustom,you would want to use a very over sized tube to connect the BBs.Using the enclosed gard would make it more difficult as you would need a cross over chainset.And many english tandems were Male/male type ,this would be a little stronger for this as you would be making it from standard (tubing sized) frames---Tandem drums would be a good chose for brakes---sam by: 68.90.181.240 |
| You see the 28" wheel tandems on Ebay occasionally. Much like your sketch w/SA drum brakes. They're impossible to ship cheaply; that's why I don't have one! by: 66.30.200.82 |
| Please keep an eye on my current activities. I'm selling off a lot of things through e- bay: throwbackbikes is my name. If you need something ask and i'll list it. by: 68.41.206.53 |
| Does anyone know if it is possible to "switch" out just the outer sheathing of the brake cables? OR, does anyone have an old set for a men's Sports to sell? My brakes "work" OK but the plastic sheathing is torn or missing in several places. Also, one of my cables is black and the other a sort of "tan" (perhaps formerly white) color. Also, is there a product you can use to "coat" or wrap the shifter cable where it is bare alongside the top tube to prevent it from scratching the paint (further)? Thanks all by: 206.58.22.251 |
| You could maybe go to an electrical supply house and get some heat-shrink tubing. It is not too hard to find short pieces at Radio Shack or other general interest stores, but if you want to cover the whole cable, you will need to get a roll. Try to get tubing that just fits over the cable, otherwise, when the rubber shrinks, it will be very thick and stiff. by: 63.236.244.90 |