If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| Hi - I picked up a front wheel with a Dynohub in it - the normal roadster 32 hole front wheel. I wanted the Dynohub for my commuter bike; it is working wonderfully. The Dynohub is dated 8 53. Actually it looks more like "8 5 3", so I don't know if it is August of '53 or March of 85, not being as well versed in these matters as I should be. I'm thinking it is August '53 because the rim says "26 X 1 3/8 Dunlop 26 X 1 3/8 EA3 Made in England" and I think that Dunlop may have stopped making stuff in England long before 1985. Anyway, I'm loathe to toss out things that might be 50 years old and aren't made anymore. This rim is fairly straight and round, but corroded to the point where one would have to rechrome it to use it on a bike. Not a thing of beauty, but serviceable. I have the original spokes and nipples, though one spoke snapped at the nipple as I was disassembling the wheel. If anyone would like to have it and is willing to pay the shipping costs from Redondo Beach, CA it is theirs for the asking. I'm willing to take pictures and e-mail them to interested parties. Regards, Tom by: 69.3.135.109 |
| Hi - I may not have been clear in my message above - I am currently using the Dynohub - the rim and spokes are free to a good home. Regards, Tom by: 69.3.135.109 |
| I know this site is for English Roadsters, but I have a question regarding an English generator. I found a 1951 Schwinn Traveler (according to the SA hub Mark)and I have just tested the Miller after a quick tune up, well it works and then it kinda squels a bit and works again. My question is about whether or not you are supposed to somehow lube the bottle generator after having sat so long. Also what can best be done to clean and protect the decals? Thanks by: 68.72.123.140 |
| My guess is yes you would need to lube the gen after a lone storage---But HOW? I took apart a lucas bottle it was very simple made and the felt ring was dry and needed a bit of oil.Wish I had more to offer but at a lost---and on decals very mild soap and water ,very little rubbing mostly dabbing with a soft rag. And then your at your own risk doing this.---sam by: 69.152.137.241 |
| Thanks Sam, I ended up putting a few drops of 3 in 1 in the little hole you find on those Miller bottles and it works for the last couple of rides just fine, and yeah soap and water worked great this a/n, those decals are heavy duty almost like a coat of paint. They still have some brown spots but the wings and planet look neat. I especially like the Miller lamp with the two way switch now to work on the green paint. Kevin by: 68.72.143.34 |
| "One, two, three, you're OUT!" Such is the way I feel with a wrench and a left hand nut for an S-A hub. I've been through 8 or 9 of these, only three currently hold. I pull one out of the parts bin, take a look at the threads, and all looks well. Spin it on, and we begin to apply a tad of force...crunch, munch! Another nut stripped, even before a decent amout of torque was ever applied. One down! Try the next one, check it, spin it, tighten it, gone! Two down! Here's the last one, checked, spun, tightened, ruined! Three down, you're out! I pull a spare R.H. indicator-side nut from the bin that had it's longer side chopped off for appearances sake...check it, spin it, tighten it, torque it, all done! I am at my wits end - I've never had a R.H. nut strip, but for all the world, it seems that the L.H. nuts have threads consisting entirely of "Play-Doh." Am I the only one here who dreads the day he must change his rear tire? -Kurt by: 64.12.116.201 |
| Twice now I've had those things go while riding, the first time I forgot to grease the threads after tube replacement downtown, the second time grease was applied, both times a bump caused the wheel to shift and hit the frame, stopping me almost instantaneously. fun. by: 168.103.237.177 |
| Last year I bought a new 7 speed S/A Sprinter hub from Harris Cyclery, and had exactly the same thing happen to the brand new nuts supplied with the hub. The Sprinter hub does not use any of the nuts with the shoulder as it does not use the "chain" for shifting, so I received two "left" nuts with it. As I am not worried about restoring any kind of a classic with this hub I went to a LBS where they had a generic version of the nut with the shoulder. I bought two of those and have now ridden 6500 Km. with no further problems. Also, the generic nut has more of its length threaded, so the force is distributed over a larger number of threads. Anyhow, I solved my problem, but it appears that this is not just a localized thing. Wayne by: 207.219.58.10 |
| This sounds very scary. Am I supposed to grease the nuts regularly to stop this from happening? What about wing nuts? Grease for them, too? by: 152.163.100.198 |
| Never in my experience have I seen this. I have heard this before however. I don't grease axle nuts just a tiny bit of oil. Perhaps my love for the old, japaned black nuts and the ones that are my favorite with the square cut away indicator chain side nut that allows you to really see to line up the thing to adjust it right- and older Hercules hubs and nuts and the older machined steel axles and nuts has kept me safe from this. Wing nuts are fine as long as you don't use them with a bike that has chrome ends. The wheel will shift on you and stop you immediately and it is scarry and potentially dangerous. So no wing nuts on chrome frame ends. This is the kind of thing that you will need to carry spares but if they are all like this as far as the newer stuff goes than you need to go old fashoned like me. I like the newer serrated washers and can't seem to get enough of them. The older hubs, back before 1935 is where I like to hang out as far as Sturmey goes. by: 68.41.202.34 |
| Chris, your early Sturmey stuff is undoubtedly superior to the post-50s stuff that S-A churned out. My '71 Sports happens to have the left nut from a spare '52 hub, and it hasn't given out yet... Ward, my best suggestion would be to discard these nuts entirely - buy a handful of S/A RH indicator nuts instead, most all shops that cater to all forms of cyclists have a drawer chock-full of R.H. S/A stamped nuts. Grind the shoulder off, and you'll have a fine substitute. For some odd reason, the R.H. nuts are fine, and I haven't had one strip...yet. I do know of one bulk warehouse down here in Miami that carries 26 TPI bolts (of all things), so I might take a trip on over there and buy $20 (minimum purchase) worth of bolts... Take care, Kurt by: 205.188.116.198 |
| Is there anything like a "torque spec" for these nuts? might it be that overtightening them one time shortens their lifespan? I normally don't worry about these things, I'm a fan of the german standard - gut'n tight - but I think I should try to be more careful with these little devils by: 168.103.237.177 |
| One option might be to buy some BSF nuts from a company that manufactures nuts and bolts for motorcycles. Raleigh threading is BSF isn't it`? by: 168.103.237.177 |
| Could grease or oil be the problem? I remember from my car engine days the torque setting for a nut is quoted for dry threads. Reducing the friction by lubricating the thread will allow the nut to go much tighter for the same amount of torque, increasing the risk of stripping. The problem I find regularly is the thin LH cone securing nut that splits open - anyone else get that? Peter. by: 62.140.207.140 |
| I have noticed a difference in the material that the right hand nut is made of. I noticed this when re-tapping a pair of nuts for a different antique foreign hub. I belive that as the right hand takes the indicator chain that it is either case hardened or made from harder steel, possibly EN32 or similar. I have made nuts from octagonal bar for old machinery and alway case harden them as a matter of course. You could try this as it is a simple procedure. All you need is some case hardening powder. A UK brand is Casenit. Alternatively you could temper the nuts with a blow lamp. Heat to cherry red and quench in water heat to straw colour and quench in oil, like in the old days of blacksmithing. I doubt you would strip the thread ever again. You have to be carefull though as it is general practice to have the nuts softer than the axle. This makes sense as you would not want to strip the threads on the axle. Regards, Tim by: 195.92.67.68 |
| This headbadge is totally lovely. I will describe it for you. Robin Hood badge, marked Nottingham, England. the red is candy colored and this must have been stored in a dark protected enviroment. Not a single scratch, the green is perfect with just a smitch of red in Robin Hoods cap. His collar is red. The detail goes from silver to black and the staff is silver as is part of Robin's boots a tiny bit or red that is Robin's upper lip. I held it up and envisioned the entire bike with all new luscuous paint and decals and with the lovely badge in place on it. That's what a new badge or decals will do to you, call you to restore the whole bike. Anyways, the thing is totally glorious. It's clean and new. Untarnished, straight glossy and full of color. It would be cool to be able to stand there and see the thing being made wouldn't it? by: 68.41.202.34 |
| I own avintage Robin hood bike, in excellent condition. Does anyone know the VALUE AND WERE THEY EVER SOLD IN THE UNITED STATES, ESPECIALLY New Jersey. Thank You by: 205.188.116.198 |
| I saw yet another Raleigh Twenty yesterday just sitting all alone and folorn by a rubbish bin. I tried to walk past but just had to go back and rescue it. I don't know what it is about these but I seem to be addicted to them. I now have eight! I keep hopping them up into different things. One electric drive, three deuraileur, one five speed sachs, one for serious shopping with carriers fore and aft, one with suspension forks from a childs MTB. There's just something about these I can't resist. Hmmm, I wonder what this one will end up like? Tim by: 195.92.67.70 |
| Must be the day for Twentys - I discovered a Twenty frame (not sure if it's folding or not, was only able to detect the unique dropouts and seat stay tabs sticking out of a load of frames) in the back of my favorite LBS. He says he has all the parts for it, as he usually says when I discover a frame back there...but he knows that I'll buy it one way or another. Take care, Kurt by: 205.188.116.198 |
| I have the extra long alloy seatpost the new type that takes the different/ modern seats. by: 68.41.202.34 |
| say - with all of those twentys - don't suppose you've got a disused white fork lying around you'd be willing to part with? the one i've got has a scored and bent steer tube, but i've been holding out for an oem fork rather than a modern one. i'm also hunting for one of those clips that goes under the front brake caliper to keep the handlebars from turning more than 90 degrees. by: 24.21.187.246 |
| You might want to email some of the Raleigh Chopper collectors, Louis. Many of these fellows will raid the Twentys for Chopper parts, and the fork isn't one of the items on their list (the Chopper takes the fork from the RSW, and even then, the steertube only fits the tall frame Choppers). You've sparked my interest about that fork stop though - mine does not have one. Never had any problems with it spinning too much. I did wonder why it featured a brazed-on stop on the frame, but didn't have any visible stop on the fork. Take care, Kurt by: 205.188.116.198 |
| Louis, I have got blue forks, brown forks, green forks in two colours but no white forks. I have never seen a white Twenty. I know they made them but it probably wasn't a popular colour where I live. Yes I do have the little chrome stop you mention as well, in fact dozens of them. Email me and perhaps we can sort something out. Shipping from the UK might be expensive though. Regards, Tim by: 195.92.67.68 |
| Interesting that you do not have a white fork, Tim...that's the color (or the previous color, I should say, it's rusted brown now), of the example sitting in the back of the shop. Take care, Kurt by: 205.188.116.198 |
| tim, tried to email you about the stop, but the message came back to me as undeliverable. tim[dot]powell[at]ngbailey[dot]co[dot]uk? my email address is listed with my post, but i always include some extra text to cause programs that scan the net to harvest email addresses from pages like these to come up with something undeliverable. keeps the spam in my inbox way down. if you'd like to try emailing me instead, remove everything between the underscores as well as the underscores in the address listed with this post. louis by: 24.21.187.246 |
| tim, got your email, but again my reply bounced. appears to be a filter on your end preventing mail from comcast.net from reaching you. 550 REPLY: 550_5.7.1_This_system_has_been_configured_to_reject_your_mail Diagnostic-Code: smtp; Permanent Failure: Other address status Last-Attempt-Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2005 15:58:47 -0000 louis by: 24.21.187.246 |
| Sorry about that. It seems my company block Emails they think are malicious. I have enquired and there was a whole list of Emails blocked some from people I was waiting to speak to. I have sent you another via a different system. I think I might get another myself. Regards Tim by: 195.92.67.208 |