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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| Boneman, Thanks for the info. The wheels are 26x1 3/8. The kickstand is a trip, any idea when the bike was made or if they are still making them this way? Do you know how I could find out more info on this bike? Are there any serial #'s or anything I can look for to help me identify the bike? Thanks again for your help, Jack by: 68.66.133.207 |
| With that tire size, it sounds like a "Sports" size Roadster of sorts. Hard to say at this point... is the frame lugged or just butt-welded. In most cases, like the Schwinn and Columbia "Roadsters" of the day, the frames were not lugged. Though I certainly can't recall ever seeing such a bike with rod and drum brakes. Either way, you have a fairly unique ride there, if nothing else! Have fun with it! Later! Boneman by: 69.39.169.203 |
| It sounds like an old Japanese bike. Most of the newer ones have "roller" rear brakes and cable-operated caliper front brakes, but any Japanese train station will have lots of old ones with rod brakes parked there, too. by: 66.30.200.82 |
| I have a few Sturmey-Archer, Raleigh, and English-cycle related parts for sale, see my webpage below for a list of parts and prices: http://www.jaysmarine.com/TH_forsale.html Note: Purchase links are NOT working - please email me at cudak888@aol.com if you are interested. Take care, Kurt by: 64.12.116.209 |
| Here's the photos http://bikerodnkustom3.homestead.com/gallery247.html This frame was saved out of a bone pile--I asure you I wouldn't start with a compleat bike.---sam by: 69.148.174.241 |
| Rides great---stopps even better.The best part is the alum.rims,over the derailer gears.I know it's said the heavy steel rims act as a flywheel when you get them rolling---but in practice I find that the forward motion of my weight is the is the Biggie and the faster(and easer) you can get your total weight moving the better the over-all ride.And light rims do this a lot better.The V brakes bring it to a stop like power brakes on a car.The Dyno puts out a nice yellow glow--would not want to ride unfamilar roads at night with it.Now if I could just figure out how to get Stacy & Boneman down to Abita next year?Guess I'll just have to work on that---sam by: 69.148.174.241 |
| Sam, that's sweet! Great job, congrats. by: 151.197.224.62 |
| A BONE pile?!?!?!? ;-) Nice lookin' ride man! Actually, I came across it earlier this AM prior to your post here. Nice work. How well do the additional gears help for ride-ability. I love my DL-1 but on the hills here... well.. it is a bit of a workout... to say the least. Congrats on being published! Later! Larry "Boneman" Bone by: 69.39.171.99 |
| Wonderful job! Which dynamo hub did you use? Do you find hub output well-matched to the wattage of the lamps? The old S/A Dynohub is, unfortunately, a little too anemic in output for many modern lighting setups. by: 167.142.23.178 |
| Can anyone tell me anything about this bike I just acquired. It is an SK, it has a full wrap around chain guard, it is a three speed with handle grip shifter, drum brake, handle bars and neck are one unit with two rods under handle bars one for brake and one for a "U" shaped unit on front wheel. The kickstand wraps around back wheel and lifts back wheel off the ground. The hub has "333" on it and another stamp that says "5353" I would really like to learn where this bike came from and how old it is, I would greatly appreciate any information on this bike. Sincerely, Jack Redd by: 68.66.133.207 |
| Sounds very interesting. Much like an English Roadster with rod brakes, however, most definitely, the rear hub is the Shimano "333" three speed. Though I'm not familiar with that hub ever having a drum brake, I'm pretty sure that's what it is. What size are the wheels? 26x1 3/8 or 28x 1 1/2" Sounds like a good find! Later! Boneman by: 69.39.171.99 |
| APPEARNTLY, YOUR DIVORCED, WHICH MEANS, YOU DON'T HAVE A CLUE ABOUT JEALOUSY OR BIKES BONEHEAD! I'M SELLING MY BIKE FOR THE FACT I'M LOSEING MY EYESIGHT!!!!! by: 66.94.16.25 |
| Some eyesight loss. You still have enough eyesight to get on the right forum to continue your argument! Go piss off some other forum, curmudgeon! by: 149.174.164.71 |
| Hey Rob, lighten up dude. 'Twas with tongue firmly planted in cheek when I composed the earlier post. Strictly "in fun", OK? Not meant to demean anyone or anything and since it obviously offended you kindly accept my apologies. As to jealousy, divorce, etc., I sincerly hope that your wife never behaves in a fashion that causes you to add the work cuckold to your resume. Mine did, hence I am intimately acquainted with the dark side of the word "jealousy". Regards, Boneman by: 69.39.171.223 |
| I've got a 40 & 32 hole SA 26 x 1 3/8 set of rims f-r-e-e for pick up. They are in very good condition - not rusty junk so often encountered. Nice chrome! My impending move necessitates the giveaway. I am located 1 1/2 hours north of NYC. by: 4.156.231.159 |
| These rims are those with the dull center ridge? Joe by: 165.21.154.16 |
| Brian - are they Endricks or Westricks (Raleigh Pattern)? Westricks have a rounded edge where the spokes fit, and the Endricks are flat on all three sides (and slightly narrower then the Westricks). Would you be willing to ship them, if they are the Endricks? The rear one on my daily-driver 1971 Sports finally snapped last week. Take care, Kurt by: 152.163.253.9 |
| Yes, the rims are Raleigh-pattern with the dull center section. These rims are definitely worth picking up. I've given away many parts in the past (irrespective of my moving or not), and I'm not driven by selfish motives as the Englishman (who'll remain unnamed here) who strips old classics (after misleading seller's - you know who you are). Making a living is one thing - deceit is quite another. Knowing that a fellow hobbyist is getting a classic bicycle back on the road is reward enough. No disrespect to those who conduct their commerce in an ethical manner. by: 4.156.228.41 |
| I am interested in purchasing a Dunlop 40 hole,26 X 1 1/4 rim. If anyone has one for sale, please email me at wdavis54@aol.com. Thanks! by: 205.188.116.209 |
| You may want to check out EBAY item 2267868260. It's a NOS Dunlop EA1 26x1-11/4" rim. I'd get it but I need an EA3. by: 24.205.217.45 |
| Ooops! You need a 40 and the one on Ebay is a 32 hole. Still could be nice to have as a backup!! by: 24.205.217.45 |
| greetings.. I have recently put together a club style bike from a old 1957 Royal 3 speed.. I love the bike.. which has interested me into putting together a real club style bike.. I am wondering if anybody has a clubman style bike that they are willing to sell.. prefer something rough.. looking for a project type bike or would prefer a frame.. just lost out a on a humber on ebay.. lost by a couple dollars on a last minute snipe.. GRRRRR.. if anybody has anything they would like to sell or trade.. my email is tod@blastomedia.com thanks by: 67.40.50.21 |
| greetings.. I have recently put together a club style bike from a old 1957 Royal 3 speed.. I love the bike.. which has interested me into putting together a real club style bike.. I am wondering if anybody has a clubman style bike that they are willing to sell.. prefer something rough.. looking for a project type bike or would prefer a frame.. just lost out a on a humber on ebay.. lost by a couple dollars on a last minute snipe.. GRRRRR.. if anybody has anything they would like to sell or trade.. my email is tod@blastomedia.com thanks by: 67.40.50.21 |
| Hello: I've been researching this discussion area for a bit and have some specific questions for anyone who can answer. I just picked up a lugged mixte frame at a yard sale, and I'm trying to convince my husband its' worth my time to restore it! It has, as I mentioned, steel lugs, 24" wheels, a coaster brake on the rear and a cable brake on the front. The kickstand, brakes and hubs are marked "made in ENgland". The rear hub is a "Resilion" marked only with a "B". The cranks have the same logo as the front hub. It has a moustache handlebar, chrome, like the rims. There are eyelets for a rear rack, and a mount for a front headlight; it also once had a headbadge. It's a sweet little bike and I'd love to know more about its' age. Thanks for any help. by: 209.240.205.61 |
| Hi Kathy, Yes of course it is worth restoring. What you have is an example of a childs bicycle. A mini version of an adults bike. It is going to be at least 35 years old and will be worth something. In the UK I do not find many examples of childrens bikes as they usually had a hard life! Not many surviveed and as most collectors are only interested in machines they can ride themselves few are preserved. Spend some time and a little money it will be worth it. Regards, Tim by: 213.249.150.36 |
| I have a pair of 28 x 1 1/2" 64 spoke, yes 64 spoke wheels on ebay. They are new as I found them. They would be great on a Raleigh rod brake bike. Nothing rides smoother than 28" wheels. These take British size tires, availabe here on this site. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2266519458 by: 205.200.39.210 |
| Took apart my AMF/Hercules and got bad news on the steering tube. The Handlebars were stuck and after soaking them in PB Blast I finally got them off with a rubber mallet. Took off the headset and check out the steering tube. In the miidle was a pronounced bulge all around the tube, as if it had buckled outward. I figure the fork is ruined and am in the process of saving what I can. Anyone seen this before and knows what causes it? Am I right in assuming the fork is toast? Anyone need any Hercules 3 speed parts? by: 198.26.122.13 |
| There's a fork on ebay (!!??) with this problem. I wonder if overtightening the the wedge in the stem might do it. Perhaps if the stem were too small for the steerer tube, it might never seem tight and a dolt would keep tightening until it expanded the tube. Boggles the mind.... by: 66.30.200.82 |
| A mysterious bulge in the steerer tube? That's most likely due to a previous owner overtightening the wedge clamp. I had the same problem on my RSW 16, no matter how hard I whaled on the stem bolt with a hammer and wood block, I couldn't remove the wedge. In the end I had to cut the steerer tube in half with a hacksaw to remove the fork from the frame. However I was lucky to find a guy who could weld a new steerer tube to the fork, however I had to find a fork with the threaded portion for the welder to use. You'll have to scrounge around. Hey remember James Garner in "THE GREAT ESCAPE"? Now that was a great scrounger...oops I'm digressing again, aren't I? Um, find a replacement fork, or if you really want to keep the fork existing fork, find another fork with the same kind of threading and have a welder slice this portion off and attach it to your existing fork. by: 207.194.19.153 |
| I wouldn't give up on the hercules just yet.Couple of reasons:1 AMF closed the Little Rock factory around 65 and you have never said how old this bike is. And 2,Replacement forks or a repair might be afordable---give it a try first.And we might need to know some more as you did say this bike came with special brakes.---sam by: 69.148.174.241 |
| Hello fellows, The rear Endrick rim on my 1971 Raleigh Sports began to burst today, I guess the rust on the inside of the rim finally ate whatever held it together. Since the rim I have in front is wobbly, I thought this would be a better time then ever to replace both rims. I would be intrested in a pair of straight and original Sturmey-Archer Endrick 26 X 1-3/8" rims, with preferably little to no surface rust. The hole combination must be 32/40. I may be willing to buy the whole wheel if you have it, but I would rather purchase the rim alone - the last thing I want is to spend another $25 extra for another Sturmey AW hub that I don't need...oh well! :-) All the best, Kurt by: 64.12.116.209 |
| Why not go the whole hog and replace your rims with new Sun aluminum rims with stainless steel spokes? A bit more money, but you'll have corrosion-resistant wheels and good brakes. I think Harris Cyclery carries the Sun 32/40 hole models. by: 66.30.200.82 |
| In my book, 'going whole hog' means putting original Sturmey/Raleigh rims on it. I'm all for stainless spokes (I have them on my 1947 Schwinn Henderson), but as far as I'm concerned, the Sun CR-18s look disgusting. Not to mention that they are narrower then the originals. I prefer the width of Westrick rims myself, actually - I just recently bought a set for my '76. Corrosion-smoshsion, the only reason my Endrick quit on me is because it was a garbage-pile rim - the only reason I kept it is because it was the original wheel with the bike, and at the time, I couldn't locate another Endrick, or a used Raleigh for parts. Take care, Kurt by: 205.188.116.202 |
| I have a 1950's BSA bicycle. It's tall - 24-26". It has a headlight that works from peddling. It's a bit faded but all originial. How much is it worth? by: 198.81.26.77 |
| Check the date on the rear hub - many of these are younger than their owners think. Measure from the center of the crank to the top of the painted seat tube. Does it have cable or rod operated brakes? What is the tire size? Is it complete; fenders, chain guard, saddle, grips, cables and clips? What's the state of its finish; like new, rusty, ...? Answer these Qs and someone might be able to suggest a value. by: 66.30.200.82 |
| I STAY IN THAILAND I HAVE BSA AIRBORNE I WANT INFORMATION FROM IT THANKYOU by: 203.121.130.32 |
| anyone can give more information I want to know too ...and say hello Mr Wasant from thailand .... by: 203.144.198.247 |
| Anyone ever heard of a Gran Savoy road bike. My father has a mid-1980s model in his garage and I am wondering if its worth getting back up to speed (no pun intended). I can't find any information on it whatsoever. by: 24.98.63.207 |