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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| Hi guys,how're you all?? Well,I just happened to come across this peculiar but rather quaintly attractive Hercules on eBay,item#2251282014. I've never seen one like this before,at least not in Malaysia. I'm just curious about this model.What make/year are these? How come they're rather seldom seen(by me,at least!)? Are they worthy collectibles/reliable bikes compared to their 'traditional' counterparts? Are they the same size as the Sports,e.g. 26"rim and 21"frame? All comments are appreciated!!! Thank you guys for sharing!!! Bye for now and take care.BYE and GOD BLESS!!! :) :) :) With best regards, W.L.SOON,West Malaysia. |
| I see Hercules bikes surface with some regularity. The time period from late 50's thru 60's is confusing because of the transition fr independent to Raleigh to AMC. Plus the Hercules bikes from Germany also confuse identification unless the bike is examined in person. At any rate, the bikes don't sell for any more (maybe less) than equivalent english 3 spds in my area. |
| I have seen photos of A Hercules Hawthorn from 1960. Frame identical to the 1959 on ebay.I believe that the Hawthorn was sold over here by Montgomery Ward. I would be tempted to bid on it,but have too many projects right now to consider a new one. |
| A picture of the 1960 Hercules Hawthorn can be viewed at:http://threespeedbicycles.angelcities.com Scrool down to My First Bicycle. |
| This ebay catalog is interesting,shows that Mead offered English parts. I have several of thes early sprockets--I lone guessed they looked English now I know for sure!http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=420&item=2250390716&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW |
| Hi all, I'm not sure that I am posting this is in the appropriate message category, but here goes. I have a Shimano 3-speed shift lever that is in need of a ball bearing. Does anyone know what size bearing I should order? Also, what material should it be made of? Is 440 stainless steel the right stuff? Many thanks! Laura |
| Laura, I'm not familiar w/the innerds of your shifter but the bb may be used as part of the detent? Since you may have to take apart shifter anyway, I'd look to see what size bb would fit and go to a LBS and buy some loose BBs in various sizes. They are very cheap (my LBS often gives them to me) and one size should work. If you're not that mechanical, take the whole shifter with you. As far as a SS bb, the shifter would probably work better with a minimum of lube so I don't see the need for ss. |
| Hi Jack, Unfortunately, I opened up the lever mechanism and the ball bearing hopped out and bounced away.... The nearest BS is about 30 miles away. The next time I take one of those things apart, I will hang a plastic bag underneath just in case. Laura |
| Laura, A steering head or smaller front wheel bearing should work quite well for you. If you can scrounge up an old junker somewhere and pirate that bearing it would save you the trip. |
| Any decent hardware store will also carry loose ball bearings in all the common sizes. |
| I'd bet there is (or was)a spring behind the bb. That will be harder to find if its lost. |
| I have one of those shifters and I had it apart and it has only a BB. There is no spring. The backplate has 3 holes and when the lever is moved it goes from 1 hole to the other. The ball keeps it in gear when the fulcrum is adjusted correctly. I will look and see if I have another spare or I can size it for you. |
| Sizing it would be very helpful. Meanwhile, I was able to take one off of another rusty heap that is in line for "future" repairs. Having the size will be helpful when I decide to work on it. Thanks! |
| You made me curious enough to take apart a lever & look. 3/16". |
| Thanks! |
| hello guys,took another look at bike and found #s on the back where rim mounts,5083EL,and the fender bracket mounts just above the rear axal,the thumb shifter gone so i dont know if it was metal or plastic? would i be right if i guessed this hercules is maybe a 1950s model??thanks!!!!!!!!! |
| had a fellow look at it and it is a 1959!!!!!!! |
| Johnny, could you further describe your Hercules for us? I have a late 50's Herc Tourist: Herc rr 3sp hub and Herc shifter, 26" Dunlop rims, chrome fenders and chnguard, blk with creme headtube and darts on tt and dt. |
| WHEN I GOT IT ,IT DIDNT HAVE A CHAINGAURD,SO I DONT KNOW THE EXACT NAME,ITS A THREE SP,COLOR IS BURGANDY WITH A BUNCH OF WHITE PIN STRIPING,FENDERS ARE NOT CHROME,,THE TUBES GOING TO THE SEAT TUBE TO THE HEADTUBE,HAS 3,TWO ARE SKINNY TUBULAR AND THE OTHER ONE IS BIGGER IN SIZE,HAS WHITE GRIPS ON IT,WITH ONE BRAKE HANDLE,NOT SURE BUT DOSNT SEEM TO EVER HAD REAR BRAKES?REAR IS STURMEY ARCHER 1959,FRONT IS DUNLAP,IT HAD LIGHTS,GENERATER,BUT I SOLD THEM BEFORE I REALIZED THAT I HAD A GOOD FIND!!IT DIDNT HAVE THE THUMB SHIFT WHEN I GOT IT,BUT IT RIDES AND CHANGES.TO BE SO OLD ITS IN REAL GOOD SHAPE,FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME AND ILL SEND SOME PICS,THANXS |
| The Louisiana Bicycle Festival is comming up soon.It's open to all types of bikes.The festival always has a layed back , wacky,south Louisiana flavor to it,with lots of fun for "kids" of all ages.The Festival is only on Sunday but Baton Roudge (Abita area) would be a great place to spend the weekend.Abita is also right in the middle of the tammy trace bicycle path(27 miles long for your riding enjoyment)The show doesn't cost you anything to "enter" just come out and show&talk ,would be nice to have some great English iron for the people to see--if not this year , mark your calander for "Father's day" next year---sam |
| I have never attended a bicycle festival before, I live in manhattan and I was wondering if it's worth the trip, are all the bikes for sale or is it show were people show off what they own? What percentages of the bikes are english? Thanks for your time and info. ron |
| It's a show.Bikes are not for sale.Percentage of English bikes--very low. Need more interested in them to show some.The link above has photos , take a look---sam |
| I've been trying to collect one of each brand of English roadsters for the post ten years. I'm getting close but now find I am possibly losing my storage. I have BSA, Triumph, Raleigh, Dunelt, Rudge (coaster), Humber, Robin Hood (?), Norman, Royal Enfield, Phillips (Possibly a few more I cannot remember): 2 of some; about 15 bikes in all. What is the best way to sell them? |
| Ebay seems like a good place....there are alot sold through there. But some of the people who visit this fourm might also be interested. |
| I need help IDing a Raleigh I just garbage-picked. It is a men's 3-speed "Raleigh Sports" green bike. It has racing handle-bars that my dad says were probably added to the bike in the 60s. At this site, I found really clear info about dating the bike via serial/frame number, and I found the frame # exactly where I was told it would be (on the frame right under the seat) but... the number is 3020, which would date the bike to like... 1888, the first year of production! It can't be that old... Besides, the Sturmey Archer wheel hub has "69" on it (but that could be a newer wheel hub). What would be 1888 bike even look like??... I doubt this bike is that old, but then what's with the serial #? Just curious, cuz otherwise I'm about to sell it for five bucks. |
| If it's green, it's probably a '69. The other # could be a factory # for frame type? In nice shape you might be able to get $25.-$50. |
| I just bought a Raleigh Sport Bike and would like to know it's value. The serial # is 2039140. It is a brown maroon color in excellent condition. It even had the owner's assembly instructions and care guide with it. |
| Hello folks, I just wanted to let you all know that I have created a new Raleigh Bicycle discussion forum for the discussion of all classic Raleighs, including the Robin Hood, Rudge and Humber models. There are special sections dedicated to discussion of Sturmey-Archer, Raleigh Chopper and Repair & Maintanance subjects. Wanted and For Sale sections are also included. The forum can be accessed via the below link: http://raleighbicycles.proboards32.com/ Please note: This forum is not meant to compete with existing forums. I created this forum for the express reason that I could not locate a fourm online that was designed specifically for the discussion of all classic Raleighs and related brands, and was in a up-to-date, easily navigable format. Please, do not take this forum as an insult to any other related discussion board! I hope you all enjoy. Take care, Kurt |
| Why do we question your intentions? |
| I'm afraid I don't quite understand what you mean, I'm sorry. Could you clarify your question a bit? |
| Maybe those ads for TVs and the "click if you don't want ads" is what that guy's talking about. |
| It looks like a good forum with all that detail. It is hard to get newsletters, forums going sometimes, I've tried, so more reason to give it the ol' college try. Though, I probably won't post anything until the coming week. |
| I am finally getting around to redoing some bottom brackets on my bikes, now that I have my new Park CR2 cotter press tool. Removing crank cotters has been amazingly simple (and fun) with this tool. I mean, the cotters just drop out with no fuss at all. However, when resetting the cotters, I am a bit unclear how to proceed. The non-threaded end of the cotter is a bit larger than the threaded end, so I am a bit worried that it might not fit well enough into the pressing cup, hence causing damage to the tool. In addition, how deeply should the cotters be reset? Thanks, David. |
| The fat end of the cotter will fit just fine in the tool. I've simply tightened it as much as I can. I think normal strength and the fairly short lever limit you to the correct tightness (much like wrenches limit the torque you can apply). It sure makes BB bearing service easy, doesn't it? |
| David, Are you sure I should reset them "as tight as I can"? I'm worried I will have trouble getting them out again. Is there a rule-of-thumb for how much threads should be showing above the nut? David |
| D'oh! wish I'd known about this tool before I went and bashed the hell out of one of my cotters. Where'd you get it? I need one for a Raleigh Sports. I'd also like the tool to remove the ring thingy on both the AW hub and bottom bracket (I forget what it's called--the one with the two notches in it). |
| I have had no trouble removing cotters on which I've used both hands to turn the tool's screw when setting them. When the cotter is all the way in, it's nearly impossible to turn the tool any more anyway. Antal: the Park tool is not made any more (used ones turn up on ebay). Does VAR make one? Park makes a spanner for the Raleigh BB and most BB hook wrenches will do for the lock ring. Fairly new SA hubs have a ring with big semicircular notches in it that a spanner from SA (check w/ www.permaco.com) fits. The older ones w/the shallow notches require a hammer and drift. |
| Although I also have a Park cotter press, I do not use it to install cotters. Before re-installing used cotters, I file the step that has usually developed then grease lightly. I then tap the cotter home while SNUGGING the cotter nut. If play exists or later develops, I tap and snug more. This method avoids overtightening which is the worst thing you can do (other than removing cotters with a hammer from an unsupported crank-arm). |
| If you do not press the cotters in with a press, you either don't mind riding with floppy crank arms or you do not ride it at all. The cotters must be pressed in with a force at leats 10x what the nut can do alone. Pounding them in with a hammer only bounces them in the hole and doesn't work either. You must us a press. Getting them out can be a pain, but the press and a few sharp taps with a hammer on the creew works in 90% of cases. by: 68.23.116.215 |
| I just picked up a Gazelle. I need some info on it. Tire size is 26 X 1 3/8, it has rod brakes bolt on seat stayes, the rear drop outs have an adjusting screw to adjust the chain, the shifter is on the top tube and the fenders are the round type, wide and(no center ridge). The AW hub is undated. Where the date normaly is it says patent applied for. It does not say Three Speed there either. The AW is located in the lower left section of the Sturmey Archer logo on the hub, but no numbers like I have seen on hubs from the 30's. Can any one help me date this bike and tell me more about it. Its like a small DL1. Thanks, Jeff R |
| "THE RELIANCE"MADE IN ENGLAND anyone know the builder?pulled it from a pile of junk bikes . sturmey archer AW dated 55. any info on the name?thanks all ,Geoff |
| Hi, I think there were a couple of brands that used that name. Vindec for sure. Interestingly I recently bought a pile of varnish-fix decals and one of them had Reliance, made in England on it. Quite an ornate decal. 55 would be right for Vindec I think. There were lots of machines pre WWII useing names like Reliance, Reliant, Defiant etc. it's one of those names we used to like over here but by 1955 that name would seem dated. Look for some more clues, (threads, stay positions, pedal rubbers etc.) that way we can rule out what its not. Regards. |
| It was made by Phillips. I have a ladies which is also a 1955. On mine the head badge is a decal. Is yours a mens or ladies? |
| its a mens.mine also has decals or"transfers"on head badge & rear fender are the same [sheild]type. chain gard & seat tube are scroll.front fender was missing and the back is in poor cond. |
| I have a Hercules Barmoral ladies cycle but cant find the code on the Sturmey-Archer hub to tell me the age. Apart from the makers name it only has AW stamped on the hub. Am I looking in the right place? Also trying to establish a value, it has been well used, but it all appears to be there. It has a Brooks saddle. |
| I received an old Huffy Sun Country 3-Speed from a neighbor. He is in his 70's so I tried to guess a year, but I have no clue at all. I found 2 codes on the rear of the frame near where the tire bolts to the frame. These codes are C71297 and 9671. If anyone has information on the year and approximate value, please send a reply to motorman629@earthlink.net |
| If it's a Sturmey Archer rear hub, it should have a two-digit year stamped on it. If it's in good condition, its value is whatever it's worth to you to have reliable local transportation; it's probably worth nothing to a collector. |
| http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=pieces_ofthe_past&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50 Trying to clean up my garage by selling off parts I simply don't need. Some are NOS and others are used. David |
| http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3679877720&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 this bike is great, I'm going to bid!!!!! |
| Good luck! That is one sweet ride for sure. Regards! Larry "Boneman" Bone |
| Gee Jim...your other name wouldn't be Ron, would it? |
| NO JIM isn’t RON smartass, first of all I don’t have to advertise my bicycles in-order to sell them, secondly almost everyone on this post finds bikes either $5 to $10 dollars at yard sales or find very good deals, I posted on a previous page that I would be selling a couple of my bikes, AND YOU KNOW WHAT, I DIDN’T HIDE MY IDENTITY?????????? GEE HOW STRANGE! |
| You don't have to yell...it makes you sound defensive. You are also the only person who frequents this board asking for exotic bits of bikes or complete bikes...eg, Wanted, English Roadsters 50's to 60's, enclosed chainguards, rod brakes etc. This is not verbatim, of course. Now you can pretend that these are innocent little requests and that you're quite willing to pay up market value for them but I'm from Missouri, as they say. You're trolling for suckers. Do you not find it strange that no one else adopts your methods? I guess you're the only guy who thinks there's nothing wrong with it. Wait... I get it! You're right and everyone else is wrong! So pardon me if I've impuned your impeccable reputation. If you are not JimBobRonBoy, then I apologize for my indiscretion. This does not change my mind in the least with respect to your tactics. I do not want to start a flame war on Ron and I do not invite others to make comment here...we've had this discussion once before. I couldn't help but take a jab when I saw the opportunity. I will not reply again (applause). |
| thanks! Public office or politics you should consider. |
| a rose is a rose; I'm thankful, when someone points something out, I've had my ebay alerts, but with a multitude of searches, searches in differing areas, searches that expire? Can one keep up with it over the long run? A picture is worth a lot of words, if I can't own a bike, nice to look at such a gem. My stable is full; and I happen to have some rides, I consider very worthy for my purposes, doesn't mean I am not interested in history, in fact ... oh, that's enough said. |
| Hi Jim Now that this auction has ended with the reserve unpenetrated, I wonder if you would mind disclosing which of the seven unsuccessful bidders you were? I am eager to discuss with you the rationale behind your strategy of alerting potential rivals. To an amateur student of natural selection, this strikes me as non-adaptive behavior. In fact, I think you absolutely owe it to Ron to take the heat off him by responding. Regards, Dick in FL |
| If my technique in bring to the attention of unusual bicycles to the oldroads patrons is misleading I’ll change my method. I will use it for the information purpose only, if there is a bicycle that I would like to mention on e-bay I’ll just copy the address and not comment, I didn’t bid on the bike because it just spiked up to high. Didn't mean to cause any grief. Jim from new york |
| If my technique in bring to the attention of unusual bicycles to the oldroads patrons is misleading I’ll change my method. I will use it for the information purpose only, if there is a bicycle that I would like to mention on e-bay I’ll just copy the address and not comment, I didn’t bid on the bike because it just spiked up to high. Didn't mean to cause any grief. Jim from new york |