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| Saw this interesting BSA on eBay. Looks like a non-folding paratrooper model. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2179672699&category=420 |
| That IS neat. Check out the size of the GENERATOR on that thing! Later Boneman |
| You are correct; it *is* a generator. Until I magnified it on my screen, I was certain that it was an old post-war Persons-Majestic bicycle siren. Note that it is badly mis-aligned with the tire .... as were many of the sirens. Like a siren and without provision for alignment adjustments, it should be mounted on the trailing side of the fork to achieve a good radial orientation (at least for a rim of this diameter). I also note that it has only a single clamp on the fork ... similar to the early pre-war sirens. A single clamp design carrying a heavy piece like this was prone to allowing the thing to rotate into the spokes with painful consequences. The first improvement was the double clamp to more effiiciently react the twisting couple. Next evolved a superior pivot design to keep the pivot joint itself out of the spokes. Finally, set screws were added to both clamps to virtually bind the bracket to the fork. As you can probably tell, I am more of siren guy; can any of you generator specialists testify that this generator pre-dates the "bottle" shape? |
| It would be interesting to have some opinions on when this was made. As Jeff says it looks like a parachute bike frame but non folding (just as an aside my understanding is that they were dropped by parachute for infantrymen, not used by paratroopers, therefore they are parachute bikes not paratrooper bikes) however the rims and the one piece crank and sprocket look later than wartime parts. Has anyone seen anything like this in a catalogue? I have never seen anything like it in this part of the world.Cheers, Ian. |
| I am looking for any information,(history,poss.value,etc.) on a "Revell" road bike. It has Reynolds 531 tubing throughout, Suntour Components,head badge says "Madison Cycles, London. Can any one shed some light on this roadbike?? Thanks Dick |
| I own a Revell, due to the fact that a Chicago distributor bought up a bunch of them in the '80's. I do not know much about the Revell company, but the frame itself seems like a fair quality club racer, not top grade. It may be that the distributor just bought lower grades, but it worked well for me and the frame was only $175. Ben |
| I own a Revell, due to the fact that a Chicago distributor bought up a bunch of them in the '80's. I do not know much about the Revell company, but the frame itself seems like a fair quality club racer, not top grade. It may be that the distributor just bought lower grades, but it worked well for me and the frame was only $175. Ben |
| Convert your bike motorized! Check out CaliCruzer.com for some cool custom motorized bikes. 48cc gas two-stroke, chain drven with a manual clutch for a real motorcycle feel. Complete bikes and motor kits available at CaliCruzer.com |
| Call me old fashioned if you wish, but if i wanted a "motorised bicycle" I'd buy a motorcycle. Thanks anyway. |
| Call me retrospective but maybe we could call them PowaPaks or Cyclemotors or Winged wheels. However check your life insurance before purchase. These machines were killers, 30cc or so on your rod braked cycle? death or glory? No glory they did kill people in our green and pleasant ( and wet) land. Caution boys, caution, Matthew - caveat emptor. |
| I did look at these.They seem to be the style motor I'm lookin for.I do agree that putting them on rod brakes is pushing your luck.I think the large drum motorcycle type brakes would be a lot safer.Anyway I'm interested but still will have to do more work before I'm ready for a motor---sam |
| Thanks for the words of caution, Mathew. Exactly how did folks get killed and maimed on these? I can see if you hit a car or if the truck(lorry) does not see you. Pushing cycle brakes beyond what they were meant for.yes I see that but eleborate please. Raleigh did say that the fitting of a motor attachment did nullify your cycle warrenty. However, I still lust for and long to own these.Cyclemotors and Vincent Fireflies, the B.S.A. winged wheel and all of it. Magical stuff. Always: "Sorry No, Not for sale." I stand there and look. Forbidden magical things, but I still be trying! These are the things that break my back before I ever even get it on the bike. I have had a heck of a time getting my paws on these! Get the seller drunk first, kinda dealing! Compeating against others interested in these for the chance to get out there and get killed somehow on the thing. Just gentle puttering along in the dry pavement. No 'ripping the cat' not with these. Besides, after the funeral I have arranged a bike swapmeet and a buffet dinner. If you're gonna go, and we all will eventually, why not on the bike with the B.S.A. winged wheel? They will point and say "So that's the one he bought the farm on, huh? It's all bent up but the seller will say: "It's good for bits" My motorized Schwinn Wasp with the Chicken Power motor had me grinning all over the neighborhood and even after I put it away in the garage and all thru dinner I grinned. I had fun! |
| Men's 21" Sprite w/S5 on ebay # 2179798702 (and ladies' too # 2179798723 ) |
| Is this do-able at home? How were these pieces assembled in the first place? I have a Faberge Egg of a Raleigh Colt with those hopeless 5.5 inch cranks and one is missing. I'm amenable to replacing them with parts-bike cranks but would prefer to retain the Raleigh heron chainwheel. How do I separate the pieces? |
| These are swaged together with a giant press. I've seen a few that have been welded back together when the joint failed, but I doubt you'll be able to separate them satisfactorily. You want to replace the 5.5" crank with 6.5"? (My gripe is the opposite; my very short son's small-framed bike came with 6.5" crank - way too big for him) |
| Find a 26" Raleigh parts bike and swap the crank and chainwheel. They should fit. |
| Well, I have checked all of my local shops for this, and now sending out an APB. Can anyone give me some help finding these? Tirelessly, Ben |
| At a swap meet the fellow I was hanging out with and trying to learn from asked casually, "What did they have?" and I mentioned the 24 inch white tires with the Kenda tread and he ran off without me and you should'a seen him. Scooped up the whole bale and haggled it out and ran away with them like they were gold. I said, It's 24 inch and can you sell these? He looked at me like I was stupid and quietly commented that because they were all white he would sell every one and he probably made 500.00 off of the whole bale. I fear I'll never be like him enough to do half as well as he has/ still does. He's widely known but not a visable part of the group here. Smart/ dedicated/ cleaver and I never hear a word against him. The exact type to teach one the ropes of this stuff. I'm going to go and offer myself as a servant or employee or houseboy so I could further my bike learning at the feet of a master. He finds all the best stuff and does quite well with this. Yet a K mart or hardware store should have these. |
| The fellow in the wheelchair looked up at me and asked: "Can you get these tires?" and he pointed in anger at the worn tires on his chair. Yes, I could and I did, but only 1 out of 9 shops stocked it. I brought him two sets and at cost. A wheelchair tire should never be a thing that is difficult to find and or replace. I would get some from Sam that he can get because the quality will be better than anything else you will find. |
| I can get them in Mexico.They are the same size as what a wheelchair would use.Only in US seems they only sell the gray ones in Mx. they sell the black ones too.Email me I'll be going sometimes in July. |
| A tire with a ribbed straight street tread with center ridge is easily available in either black sidewalls or gum sidewalls. One of the distributors that I buy from has more than 1000 of each sidewall color in stock in the US. It's probably made in Taiwan and is either a Kenda or Chen Shin. Black tread. |
| They're Kenda and made in Taiwan. We have the gumside ones in stock and can special order the blackwall tires. Most bicycle shops can order them where I do. Email me if you want more info. |
| These in all white too. Go with what Sam has to offer it is worth the wait. |
| Harris Cyclery in Newton, Mass has them: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/index.html |
| I've actually seen these in Wal*mart... gumwall even... Good luck! Boneman |
| Thanks for all the help...I would love to get my hands on the white ones. Ben |
| My New Hudson roadster has a brown leather strap hanging on to both hubs. I can't figure out why they are there, but they appear to have been there for quite some time. By the patina on the leather, it seems to have been there for at least 30 yrs, if not more. Any ideas? It looks like a piece of thick leather, about 1" wide and 6" long, which loops around the hubs and is held in place by steel staples. Oddest thing yet that I've seen on an English roadster. David |
| Hi David.... The straps were placed there to keep the hubs shiny, clean and bright. They were constantly spinning as the wheel turned. Usually at this stage of the game, they're about ready to fall apart. Fred A |
| Hi, Those things are called "hub polishers". I have seen several N.O.S sets sold on Ebay. |
| Should I remove them? Seems the only way to get to them would be to cut them apart, other than disassembling the wheel. They are actually not falling apart, but still holding up strong. I was just worried they would interfere with the spokes. David |
| I like em...they were popular accessories an add period charm. And they keep your hubs shiny. I have three or four NOS pairs myself, |
| I like em...they were popular accessories and add period charm. And they keep your hubs shiny. I have three or four NOS pairs myself, |
| there's an echo here...here...here... |
| How does one remove flames off of a painted bike without damaging the finish underneath? Hey Geo, whatever makes you happy and you brought up a good point about Mario. |
| Leather hub straps did tend to keep dirt around the fitting. Did that ever encourage dirt to get into the fitting and down into the hub's innards itself? There usually was a reflector or something with a slight weight like a knot on these. ( I remember clothes line with a knotted cord.) You think it would have been chromed leather or something but the regular leather would have keep most of it clean. and it did. Who invented the hub shiner? Sturmey- Archer never offered these. Neither did B.S.A. |
| Good point, Mr. Vernoy. That's true. |
| The only thing about hub shiners that I would worry about is that they could, after many years or many miles, wear the markings off the hub. For years I've been taking hub shiners off any hub that I own and advising others that they might want to do the same. I have seen old Sturmey Archer hubs worn down so that the markings were barely visible and they were all wearing hub shiners. I've found that the hub can be cleaned periodically as needed with a long cotton tipped swab and WD-40. Besides, the hub shiners leave dirt right around the lubricator. |
| Hmmm.... methinks "hub shiners" are an Americanism. Like those mudflaps with the reflectors. Red and white striped shirts, dungarees with the cuffs rolled up and black high-top Keds. Not leafy country lanes, thatched cottages and plus-fours. And if I were lucky enough to own a New Hudson roadster, you can be darn sure I wouldn't rely on a piece of oily leather to keep the hubs shiny!! Do your New Hudson a favour: take these wretched things off, get some Simichrome and polish gently. A simple wipe down thereafter is all you'll need to keep the hubs looking shipshape and Bristol fashion. P.C. Kohler |
| I have a friend who grew up in the early 1950's in the UK who owned a Raleigh Superbe from that time period. He was the first one to tell me of this strange leather accessory that hung on your wheel hub to keep it shiny and clean. According to him they were very popular over there. Sounds like they were used on both sides of the pond. |
| Ok, I admit that I'm an American who at ten years old would ride my Hercules wearing dungarees with rolled up cuffs and black hi-top Keds, but I don't think I ever wore red and white striped shirts , (they were brown and white stripes), and no mudflaps with reflectors ever went on my Hercules. But seriously, I use the Simichrome on the hubs to polish and protect the chrome after taking the oily dirt off with WD-40. BTW, I found out at an early age that even a kid in a striped shirt, dungarees with rolled up cuffs, and black hi-top Keds, riding a Hercules bicycle, is classier than the other kids who aren't riding a British three speed bicycle. But I was eleven years old before I took the leather straps off the hubs. I think it was my father, who told me that I needed the leather hub shiners. He put them on, I didn't. |
| Good show J.M.! Me, too, actually. And my first real boyhood bike was a Herc, too.... even an AMF branded one! One of Raleigh's classic posters from the '50s for the Sports (and with an enclosed gearcase too!) shows a very American lad in the above cited "rig" (and ballcap of course) "racing" a Sabre jet down a runway. Me, I'd rather wear the Keds than have hub shiners on my Raleigh or Rudge but... there you have it! P.C. Kohler |
| That is a great classic poster Peter! I am lucky to have one hanging over my computer station and it sounds like you may have one too. |
| Why is it that nobody makes these and sells them? Yes, period accessory and millions of them were made. I have seen tons of these. Now, it's not too difficult. Get a good one and knock some out that look right. It's only a piece of leather. Where are all the cool things like this? when is it going to be really - reborn? |
| I own that poster and many others. Some of the Raleigh posters were kinda ugly and creapy to look at. I lent out this poster and dared them to put that up. I was kidding but he took me upon it. Everybody liked it except me and I would not look at it. Scarry looking ladies with bad hairdo's, dumb scenes that don't showcase the bike properly and lack any romance or enthusiasm. There are a few lady models I would be riding away from, astride a Raleigh or no. Cycle posters, especially the French ones were magical works of art. So much beauty here but Raleigh was hot and cold in letting us see it by way of their poster art. I had an idea for a t- shirt and I sent out material and never recieved it back and it was something I can not yet replace. Don't get me wrong, a lot of it was very good. It was not easy, but I have the Specialized poster from a few years ago. The model looks like she is wearing a cycle jersey but it is really just body paint and nothing else. The logo was so well done you can hardly tell and she's got a funny look in her eye. One loyal old school friend of mine saw it and was displeased saying they would not dare do that in his day. Not an actual photograph and not with the company logo. We laughed, he shook his head. Collecting bike posters is a fun part of this. Specialized only released a very few of those and the shop had to be in good graces and it was a selective thing. It was strange, I heard about it and could not get it elsewhere. They knew but were not going to be able to get on in. I went and bought it up. I have been thru shops that have collections of posters. The old, old, stuff is the coolest usually. This stuff is reveared and usually in the not for sale catagory or else they want a lot for it. Then there is: age, fading, water marks, rips, tears, mold, and the fellow that shakes his head when I point to it. |
| P.C. Kohler is correct. This is how many folks are. You are either in the hub shiner camp or strongly against it. Baycliffe and Brooks and a few other British companies made hub shiners but question is, Did the Brits use these on their own bikes? |
| Just cut 'em off. It still amazes me which threads recieve a thousand replies. Hub shiners? If you like them, use them if you don't, don't. It's funny, I wear "dungarees" when I ride because if I'm not forced into wearing a shirt and tie at work then I am definately wearing the American icons of clothing worn the world over(including Britian) blue jeans and a tee-shirt(or sweatshirt depending on the weather up here in NEW England)and that includes when casually riding my dl-1. This little click has become as brutal as the rest. If it's not neon colored spandex to ride a road bike then you have to dress like some freakish 1930's stand-in in a local production of Oliver Twist to ride a Raleigh? Who cares. Where is Mario when you need him! The voice of reason, champion of free spirited cycling enthusiasm. That does it, I'm going to go paint flames on one of my Ralieghs. |
| It's really quite simple. Get an old dog leash or purse strap, cut a slit in on end and an arrow shape on the other. It'll only remove stampings if its oil soaked and charged with grit. Now where can I get those funky dice valve caps for my Superbe?.... |
| Hmmmm... don't know if you have an Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts in Vancouver... .but they carry the dice valve caps... as well as chrome skulls with jewel eyes AND (my personal favourite) the ones that light up when you roll. ('_^) Later. Boneman |
| Where I can get one? I was told by Park that they are no longer made. I'd be interested in buying one from anyone here that has one in GOOD, used condition. Thanks, David. |
| Put in a saved search on Ebay that will email you when one turns up. They do, from time to time. They usually go for around $50. |
| Great Sturmey site. http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/gill.html Notice, this link has a tilda right before the word hadland. This site usually changes this to another character and will not allow you to just cut and paste it. You must change the character before hadland to a tilda which is the wavy line usually just before the number 1 on the top row of your keyboard. It usually requires that you use the Shift key to get it. Replace what ever character is before the word hadland with this tilda and it should work. |
| Bill told me Var made a cottor removal tool---something bigger and meaner that the cotter press.He also had a headbadge I'd like to trade for.Nice bunch of guys at Abita Springs.Hope he emails me or guess I'll just have to wait till next year---sam |
| I recently purchased a Raliegh light roadster. The Sturmey archer AW hub is dated as a 1970. The bike has the identical frame geometry to a "Sports" but only the raliegh name appears on theframe and chain guard. It is a metalic dark orange/brown with white fenders, chain guard and head tube. Can anyone shed some light on this for me. |
| I was offered another bike for free and expected to get another shopper or cheap mtb. Then my friend arrived, she rode her mother's Moulton Standard to my front door. I was amazed and delighted. It's a 1963 three speed model with pump and integral rack. Sometimes you win. For every junk cycle you get offered or given there is generally a good one waiting in the wings. Enjoy the successes and share them here. Matthew |
| I have several photos of this bike and tried to post one on the previous listing, but this site apparently does not accept html coding. I'll be glad to email photos of this bike to anyone who would like them. The bicycle is black and the markings read Rudge, Britians Best Bicycle. When I purchased the bike ($15.00 price), I was told it was a late 1940's model. I have tried to research vintage bikes at my local library but have had no luck. I'm in a rural area and our library does not have a large inventory. Any help from you experts out there is greatly appreciated! |
| We can view your bicycle if we just change the ' to a ' in your link. This one works http://www.intercom.net/'dostrow/bike1.JPG |
| What this site doesn't do is print what I think is called the ampersand. It's the wiggly horizontal line on your keyboard to the left of the key with the ! and the 1. Copy and paste the address to your "open this website" window, whatever one you use, change the ' to an ampersand and we can see your bicycle. http://www.intercom.net/'dostrow/bike1.JPG Remember to change the ' to the ampersand. You and I typed the link correctly but this site won't do ampersands. Your rudge is one of the nicest I have seen lately. While it is not at the top of the value scale it is far from the bottom of it. From here the saddle appears to be the only part that is not original. You can find more about Rudge bicycles by searching the internet for "Rudge bicycles". Just remember that on the internet not everything that you find is correct. One you can definitely trust is http://www.sheldonbrown.com. Start with that site. Also seaarch the archives of discussions here on oldroads.com. And take a look at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rollbritannia/ For a few more links you can take a look at my links page http://threespeedbicycles.angelcities.com/links.html |
| Here is the better link to Sheldon Brown's site http://www.sheldonbrown.com/oldbikes/index.html |
| It's called a tilde |
| Your right, Warren. Thanks. |
| I recently purchased a black women's Rudge bicycle. I know nothing about vintage bicycles and need help identifiying the year, model and value. |
| If your bike has a Sturmey-Archer 3 or 4 speed hub, it will have the date if manufacture stamped on it. For example 01 51 translates to January 1951. cheers, and enjoy the bike. |
| Where are all the small time, garage inventors out there? Why is it that things are not offered for sale and how come we never hear from them. The unique tools, the Singer-type bottombrackets that are better quality wise than the original Raleigh e.t.c. bottombrackets. There is a whole lot of things to be offered and I never see anybody come out and do it. Parts of this hobby seem dead and I cannot figure it out. Not with the internet. |
| Chris, they are out there. They are often techno-phobes or just plain not interested in the net. These men, for they are men, are not interested in out of towners or folks with big money. They will give valued goods away to the 'right' person, they are free with their priceless advice which goes way beyond websites and book-learning. They need to be comfortable with you before they open up and they can see straight through a phoney. They suffer fools not gladly. Given a common interest, cycles, they will talk for hours and be generous beyond compare. Sadly many rare and difficult to locate parts are out there to be found but they are hidden in collections, on shelves, in cupboards, ready for those 'maybe'restoration jobs. Getting hold of them makes nuclear physics look easy. Enjoy the ride. Matthew |
| Or just wait until the old coots pass on and the widow piles all the stuff out on the curb (kerb?) |
| True. I do not disagree with anything you said as my personal experience has reveled this to be the true case. Advice to everybody who is interested in old bicycles: This is the way many bike people are. The old school bikies are just as Mathew said. Print this page and cut out what Mathew said and paste it up because this is the real way it works. What bothers me is that they refuse to get on board and on- line and they do not take time to contribute to a site like this one here. They are not even mentioned here let alone take the time to get involved and regualrly answer peoples questions. That is wrong. Especially with the renewed interest in old vintage bicycles with people of all ages visiting this site. When you meet these old codgers who were there working with the likes of Oscar Watson or other folks of that caliber. Do this for all of us, will you? For Vin and the good of the group. DRAFT THE SUCKER! SAY, LOOK, WE NEED YOU ON OLDROADS.COM OR ELSE THE FOOLS AS YOU SAY WILL BE ALL THAT IS REPRESENTED. OR REPRESENTED TOO MUCH ANYWAYS. It bothers me to no end that they stay away and cloistered in secrecy and do not share what they know with the whole planet. Are they fit to teach? sounds like it. So Why won't they? Are they scared of somebody pointing to something they said as not correct. Not if they are real old school and know their stuff. If they see a phony, why don't they get in and teach then. I'm no phony. I have earned everything but I am not old and not as connected as they were. So I have to go drum it up. Because they won't get involved I'll do it. Because they are not here to drive I'm helping with the driving and then they say "Who is this Chris fellow?" One cannot critizize if they are not willing to teach and inspire. Heck, they don't even show up. Yes, we have wonderful people here. Really we do. But do you know who is still alive and out there? The old bike people? My God! This is running at 22% of what it could do. I'm going to ask and start drafting people and sit them down with the computer and bring them to the site and say "Have at it and leave it with them." Getting at the stash would be made difficult because everybody here would be wanting to buy it but that is better than it going out to the trash truck where nobody gets it. We are losing resources people and material because they are not getting dragged out into the light. Cut and paste what Mathew said as it is right on! |
| I suffer their quirks and arrogance and age discrimination and nutty- ness not easily and only begrudgingly. The sour, dour, attitudes. The excuse of: "I'm old so I get to behave like this." I can lecture about: Coot's 101. Yes! |
| Old coots can be fun some times. My guru, an 80 yr old, handed over the shop to his son, but he still has his work space. One day I visited him with a problem with an FG hub, saw he was in a foul mood, and kept my distance. A few minutes later his 12 yr old grandson walks in with a science project challange: How to make an invention move the farthest with a moustrap as a power source. He gets this dreamy look in his face and dissapears, then comes back with two Don Ho LP's. Sandwiched the LP's between a an old Atom front hub, stuck the mousetrap on the hub, set the trap, and told his grandson to give it a try on the show room linoleum floor. "Well, it makes sense. Looking at that mousetrap made me think of rats, and Lord knows I'll never play those records,-ever. So,..." |