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OldRoads.com
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| Mucus I also recognized the song! Please e-mail me at bcjf@webtv.net thank you ben |
| I recently purchased a bike on an auction. I believe it to be put out by JC Pennys cause it has the Pennys symbol and words on the post. It is a "Foremost" I was looking for information on it but can't find any and none seems to have ever heard of the bike,if any one has any information on this bike, please e-mail me, i would greatly appreciate it! Thank You. |
| If my memory is correct, "Foremost" was used as a trademark by Penny's for years, like "J.C. Higgins" at Sears. It was probably used on dozens (or more!) of different models over many years. You'll need to describe it in some detail before anyone will be able to help ID it. |
| What's this too do?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2155520771&category=420 |
| Sam, That's a wheel truing stand. A heavy duty one, very nice! |
| Sam, I thought of you when I looked at Joe's antique truing stand (the link's on the balloon and middleweight page). Check it out. You will also get a kick out of his tandem bike with a massive springer. Rixe I think was the headbadge. I glanced at Jim Langley's headbadge pictures (www.jimlangley.net) but who knows if it's there? |
| Can't say what that bike is , but that springer is great.Some old French& English motor bikes used this design.Now they make a modern mountain bike -down hill-with this design. |
| Not mine but has possibilities if you live nearby. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2154778576&category=420 |
| Interesting,but not the greatest pictures I've seen. |
| Oh no! Not more rusty Ann Arbor collegetown bikes!!! This is from the same guy I bought my '48 Raleigh "Dawn Tourist", otherwise known as the money-sinkhole-from-hell which is still lanquishing at the bike shop, and the same guy my neighbour bought his rare but even rustier Phillips "Roadmaster" roadster. So when he says its in "rough shape"... believe him! This looks to be a pre-war Hercules 28" wheel, 24" roadster, but I'm not touching it with a barge-pole. Even for $25. Oh, BOTH machines came with bent forks. Big time. P.C. Kohler |
| They all look restorable from 30 feet away! My advice: Unless it's something super rare, buy bikes in person so you can look them over and ride them first. Shipping a junker back to its buyer usually costs more than it's worth, and the seller knows it. |
| any leads or help in finding this bike. http://sheldonbrown.org/english-3.html any condition, thank you. |
| The seller said he was "not too sure of its make." Not too sure! That "S" stands for Sunbeam! Isn't that the "little oil bath"? Alas, as expected, this one's over the Atlantic. David, who will someday be the proud owner of the perfect Sunbeam (he hopes). |
| A Sunbeam, a Sunbeam, David poston wants a Sunbeam. A Sunbeam, a Sunbeam, he'll find a Sunbeam for him! (A poor play on a kids sunday school song) |
| Talking about "working" English roadsters.... sitting here warming up with a mug of Bovril ("puts lead in your pencil") after cycling back from the Kennedy Center here in Washington D.C. Sleet and snow, maybe about 11 degs F. Below zero windchill... OK.. it happened AGAIN: my GH6 on my Rudge Super Safety 1949 works wonderfully outbound. Then on the way home it's OUT. Dark. Nothing. This has happened four times now. As soon as the machine warms up in my living room (dripping all over my carpet now), the lights will work. Machine was standing outside for about three hours. But it's done this after about 20 mins in say 30 deg. F weather. So what gives? Are dynohubs worthless in severe cold? Any one else out there have this problem. Contacts checked and double-checked. This is the old GH6 with the bakelite facing. I guess I should see if my AG dynothree on my '51 Rudge does the same, but at least she has the FSU/DBU unit. Maybe my Rudge and I should hop on the next train to Florida... P.C. Kohler |
| Intermittent electrical problems almost always involve faulty connections. I'd be especially suspicious of the switch in the lamp and the lamp socket. Any wire terminals that are not tight might be iffy, too. I'll bet the dyno is just fine; I've been using mine frequently in this cold Boston weather but I have a modern German headlight with very few wire connections. |
| I'am curious as to whether or not both head and tail lamp fail.I don't know if cold weather would have any effect on grounding,but I would'nt think so.I own three dyno equiped Raleighs and a few other bikes with wheel type generators. These sometime fail.My initial approach after inspecting the bulbs is to disconnect the lights from the generator and hook up a test light that I keep for this purpose. If the test light works when I spin the wheel I know that the dyno or generator is OK. I then check wiring and ground and have ,so far, been successful in locating and correcting the problems. Good luck I'am sure that you can solve this one. |
| First I agree with David. Generators do not have a habit of running intermittant. That said, extreme weather conditions can have many effects on an electrical system. With wet, cold and salty conditions you can be suffering from dirty or loose contacts at various points. My suggestion is to disconnect all wire contacts and clean them. Both at the light and wire areas then re-assemble them. Next take the bulb out and clean the threads with some light steel wool and likewise clean the socket. Blow out all the loose particles and re-install the bulb and you can use a little vaseline to make sure dirt or corrosion does not creep back into the connection. You can also put a coating of vaseline on every exposed metal electrical connection after you clean and re-install it. Make sure the headlamp clamp area is clean both the clamp and the place where it clamps. With everything clean and tight and a light coat of Vaseline you should not experience the problem any longer. I have also seen wire break inside the insulation cause an intermittant connection. When you take the wires apart give them a firm tug to see if the insulation stretches anywhere. If it does you have a break in the wire and it should be replaced. Hope this helps. |
| Hey.. thanks for all these suggestions which I shall indeed try. And yes, Ed, the headlamp and tail lamp both fail. This lamp set is NOS so it's as mint inside as one could want, wiring, contacts etc. But I will clean everything again. Or take that round the world cruise until things warm up around here.... P.C. Kohler |
| sounds to me like when it gets cold the lube that is between the brush and the holder is binding up when very cold due to contraction. or no lube at all same reason. could disassemble and clean it all real well, dry is fine for the brush holder. maybe sand the sides of the brush lightly to reduce the size so it dont bind. just a guess without ever seeing one apart. |
| Yup...18 hours to go. Womens model. Sorry I lost the number but do a quick search if you want to make a bid. |
| Way cool, the item number is 2701590011. |
| Really, it's very cool. It is exactly like mine, except a female. I wish I had it :-( |
| I noticed it, yes. I was tired and didn't feel well that day but I did see it. It's buried, behind and beneath a ton of junk bikes. It's ancient, and gonna weigh a ton. I sit wondering how I'm gonna get it up the stairs.Sure these come apart, but still. Also the haggling is gonna drive me up the wall. Getting it home will be an adventure. Gotta do this solo too.Soon they'll pile more stuff up sealing it off altogether. Oh, do I even want it? It's a antique bicycle work stand. large, chromed, and vintage. Never seen one of these before either, not like this one. This'll be the first really way cool workstand I have ever seen anyplace yet alone gotten my grubby hands on. I keep asking myself "Why do you want it?" This waiting and thinking it over,this fence sitting is not good. Don't do this, you gotta strike while the irons hot or else it'll be gone. Others will be in there, drag it out and be off down the road. |
| I am going to receive a sample of modern steel tubing intended for bicycle frames from a fellow in England. I have the idea to build some modern made "roadster" frames along the exact lines of the DL-1, except with good quality lug work, and modern butted steel tubes. I have a sample of "fancy" lug work on a BB I carved from a blank I bought a million years ago, but the supplier in Wisconsin is appearenty dead and gone. I'd like to know if some one has any idea of where I might find lugs and bottom bracket shells for such a project? I was intending to use a DL-1 frame as a guide, so I wouldn't neccesarily need drawings, but if any one has experience with trying this in a roadster frame, please lemme know! |
| OOHH, I be sitting here and I'm jealous! Please send a picture of this when it's done. A write up someplace too! You want to do a lightweight 531 or modern lightweight tubing constructed bike in the rod brake roadster configuration? Neat! Yes, when they are dead and gone ,that is a problem. I hate it when either happens! Stay in touch! |
| Mark... thanks for reminding me... I'll see if I can add some DL-1 style lugs and bottom brackets (and they won't be "fancy'!) to my order from Mangla... they sell every component for the frames. P.C. Kohler |
| Yeah, well that would be great. As long as they are blank lugs everything would be fine. My plan is to cut a minimum of "fancy" lug work onto them, and possibly make a frame with only blank lugs. I think a modern made roadster frame assembled with fancy cut lugs, and proper tubing would be too much :-) The only real problem I can think of would be the fork crown, but I suppose a modern stamped crown would have to do, although I believe the Indians make "Raleigh" style tubular crowns. |
| I've see the phillips style forks with the chrome crown cover for sale.Maybe you could fancy cut the crown cover.I think your idea is great,a modern DL ! Wow ! you could put a brass tube in the hole where the bolt for the rod brake goes through the frame for an added bushing,and maybe use stainless steel rods too.What a cool idea.when you get it finished please do show it!! |
| UUGG, well I figured I'd simply swap all the running bits from my DL-1 on to the new frame. I'm a duffer, not an engineer, but damn wouldn't an "All Stainless Steel Bicycle" be too groovy? Oh Baby!! The thing is these Raleighs were meant to be "everymans" bike disigned to last forever, and a good price. I think it would be a little over board to make/have a $1500 roadster, that is simply not what they were menat to be. But it would be oh too cool!! |
| Forks? Forks? You want forks?? Well, Mangla sell 'em: you can get 26 tpi Raleigh ones (same style as the original) for 28" wheels, 24 tpi Phillips ones for 28" machines (regular tyres and also another fork for ballon tyres) and even Humber style double forks for 28" wheels, 24 tpi. P.C. Kohler |
| We all knew they were ahead of their time in cycle design, but man, Raleigh were producing this in "1911".... and it's a bargain at $199 opening bid... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2155344757&category=420 Quick call the eBay police... P.C. Kohler |
| I wrote to this fellow, and I'd suggest everyone here do so as well. This bike obviously was made in the 70's, or maybe late 60's. |
| I wrote to this fellow, and I'd suggest everyone here do so as well. This bike obviously was made in the 70's, or maybe late 60's. |
| He wrote me back, and appearently is sticking to his guns that this is a bike made in 1911. I tryed to explain it rationally, but I don't know if I got throgh or not:-( Some poor fool is gonna pay big bucks for it, and not realize he got shafted 'till it's too late!!! |
| Nobody could be that stupid. Could they? Tim |
| I just looked (10 a.m. MST) and it wasn't there. Did they make him take it off? |
| I just looked (10 a.m. MST) and it wasn't there. Did they make him take it off? |
| It's still there, although he wrote me back, and says he's gonna check it over better for a more realistic date. We'll see. |
| He has indeed lowered the starting bid to $125, and has revised his ad. |
| We've just posted a bunch more bicycles and priced others at "winter prices". Click on "Bicycles For Sale" at the top of this page. Regards, Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc. http://OldRoads.com |
| It appears that the well known Baycliffe cycle bag that hangs (hung) off of the famous Brooks leather saddles (seats) has been carried off over the horizon and left to the past. The earlier ones were cloth-ish,as I have one. The later ones were vinal or leatherette with real leather straps. These have a white plastic triangle (badge as it were) with red writing on it. I'll bet they churned these out in leather too, somewhere along the timeline of their manufacture. I found four of the recent versions in large leatherette. Beautiful! They look awesome attached to the bike's seat. I have been chasing leather cycle bags and related things from these companies for years. Tools also! After I recovered from the shock of finding these I thought. "It's about time!" I did a search on Baycliffe but found nothing at all. Cycles de Oro has not yet put up little bit on the Baycliffe bags,but they will sooner or later I think, and I'll be happy to see it whenever that happens. The Cycles De Oro pages continue to be updated and that's awesome! What exactly the company was called that made these I don't know for sure. I thought it was simply Baycliffe. Still, I could be wrong, as perhaps it was made by somebody else? I don't have an address for them. I was wondering if they were still in business or when they went under. Now Carridice bags are still around and you can order them but they have changed over the years. Still excellent quality. The Brooks cycle bags are gone now also. The leather bags and pannier boxes/metal racks are a sought after accessory for these English bikes. I saw Rivendell Bicycle Works offer cycle luggage bags and they had somebody else who made leather bags offering them through the Rivendell reader and catalog but that was awhile ago, but I'd guess they still offer them these days. I'd love to find more of these. You don't see many leather or leatherette vintage British Cycle bags on e- bay these days do you? |
| About a year ago I was frustrated at not being able to find a simple leather toolbag to hang behind my B66. My options were either e-bay, or one from Rivendell which was something like US$ 40.00 at the time.(Anything we Canucks buy via post from the States, we get gouged real bad by our own rule & regulations) However I did come across a cheap, plastic toolbag, right size, looked good, but I knew if I put so much as a cone wrench in it, it would fall apart. So I bought it, and ripped all the stiching out. I went down to second hand store and bought a used leather satchel, and ripped the stiches out of it too. Then I brought the whole mess to a shoemaker who used the plastic toolpouch pieces as a pattern, cut out the pieces from the satchel, and stiched it up for me. I paid him something like CDN$20.00. It looks pretty good, and I don't know if I should feel happy or sad for being so cheap to do it like that... |
| You should feel pride at your resourcefulness! |
| Chris, I work in a cyclery that has been in business since '56. I unpacked a box of NOS Baycliffe bags about 15 years ago. The invoice interestingly stated the manufacturer's name as "Rixe" not Baycliffe. I used one one my Triumph Bonneville (motorcycle) for years until it essentially dissolved. I still have one from another box of ancient accessories, although it's a slightly cheaper version of a Baycliffe, (no little snap pockets on the sides) black vinyl (you can see the cloth backing of the vinyl inside) leather straps, and actually sports the name "Rixe" on a white plastic badge. We also had frame pumps with the name Rixe. I had a bag made by LeatherWorx in Nyack, NY for $50, looks like a larger version of the small naugahyde bag that came on my first real bike, an AMF Herc in '73. The Leatherworx bag is of outstanding quality and goes back & forth from my Rudge to my Triumph 900. I'd trade my Rixe bag for a bag like I had on my Herc, which was about the size of a 110 camera case (if anybody remembers 110's !) Kind of like a big rectangukar wallet. I've seen them from time to time on ebay. They don't close well, the flaps on the ends usually end up sticking out like rabbit ears, and the hasp which twists closed accepts a tiny padlock - like that would have any merit in NYC.... |
| I appreciate your post and found it informative. |
| Did Puch make bikes for AMF as they did for Sears? I have an AMF Skylark three speed, Sturmey-Archer hub dated '71. It said "Sport 2000" on the head tube. On the rear brake bridge, it has "Austria" and "Pleitcher" stamped. I bought it for $2 last summer at an estate auction. After some new tires and paint it rides great. |
| Are you sure it sez "Pletscher" on the bike and not an accessory? Pletscher makes aluminum pressure die castings in Switzerland (maybe used to in Austria, too) like luggage racks and kickstands. |
| I once had a Sears bike made in Germany that also said Pleischer on the brake bridge. Maybe Pleischer also made frames OEM??? |
| Maybe Pleischer made the brake bridge and not the whole frame. The brake bridge was drilled to match the two holes on the front of the Pleischer aluminum luggage rack. Unfortunately I have a Taiwanese copy, but the holes lined up perfectly, so I didn't need to use the clamp around the seat stays. I had the date wrong, it is '72, not '71. And the Austria may have been on a decal, instead of the brake bridge. I should have taken pictures before I repainted. |
| must have enclosed chain guard rod brakes and 28 inch wheels. Any condition. |