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OldRoads.com
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com |
| For sale barn fresh Roadmaster Ballooner. Nice restorable bike. Complete. Needs new tube up front to be ridable. Allstate tires some weathering but ridable. Has been repainted. Original paint is still underneath. It was Maroon and cream with orange highlights. Chrome is not bad, trussrods would need replating. A nice restoration project or just a good cruiser. Basic model of the Luxury Liner line up. Probably 48-52 era. $160 plus shipping and the cobwebs are free. I have another bike in original paint that is identical to this one(and was bought at the same time) if you would like to see the colors and paint scheme. I bought two from the original owners one brother decided to paint the other kept his original. Check it out at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/barn |
| We have correct used truss rods for this Roadmaster on our "Bicycles/Parts FOR SALE" page (the link is at the top of this page) Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles http://www.OldRoads.com |
| I found A old girls siverking...It has all chrome frame. Red tank with battery operated horn and lights. Front and rear chrome fenders. A small rocket ship on the front fender. red rack with a battery operated tail light. Red chain gaurd and fantastic white springer seat. Cannot find it for the life of me anywhere online...no pictures..Just gorgeous...can anyone help me find out what year and picture of it...Thanks Davie |
| Check the sold items on EBAY. A boy's model just sold today. |
| I have a three wheeled hawthorne bicycle and am trying to determine the age of the bike. It has the numbers 2965 stamped on the rear chainstays near the rear dropouts. If you have any info on this please email me at bryangossett@yahoo.com thanx Bryan |
| Need more info, 'specially a picture. What size are the tires? That will help a little. |
| hello everyone. along with this excellent web site, there are many other places to get the answers you need. one of which is The Bicycle Billboard: www.angelfire.com/dbz/forum so if you would like to get the word out as much as you can, come on over and post your questions and pictures at our site too. and a "big thank you" goes out to this site, oldroads.com, which has been here for collectors as long as i've been in this hobby. |
| I have a huffy camaro for sale .I haven't been able to find out any info about it.So I don't know the age,or anything.It is in pretty good shape,The paint is not bad.It has a rack on the back and a head lite.Not sure if the lite works.The plastic tab that holds the top of the lite lenz is on is missing otherwise it is good.When you pedal the back hub doesn't grab,might just need a good cleaning.email me for pictures.Asking $100+shipping.Thanks. |
| I am looking for a set of new half-moon handlebars that are often seen on roadmasters and elgins. Maple island and lovely lowrider both have them but they appear to be of the smaller diameter double neck bmx style variety. Is that correct and does anyone know where to get a new set cheap? |
| You may be refering to "Womman's style" handlebars. They are more of a smooth arch than men's handlebars. |
| I'll make a page on how to ship bikes! Send me your ideas. Or post them here. What packing materials you use, tricks to keep things from getting scratched / bent, etc. Even prefered shippers! http://www.concentric.net/%7ERrrrguy/bike.html I'll make a page, photos and all! |
| Hi folks, I`m just posting a thought. Most of us I assume search for parts at some time or another. Beginning with the people we know, then on to offering trades for what we need, then to posting wanted`s on the boards. But when all else fails, and we need that part, we may at that point look on Ebay for the elusive piece. Now I know some are against Ebay to say the least but I believe that most have purchased or sold using it at times. I would like to suggest one last stop before heading to Ebay to buy or possibly even sell, and that is X-bid. Joe Rapozza must have felt as strongly as some of you about Ebay in the past, or X-bid would not be there to counter it. Lets all give Joe and Kelli a hand and show some support for their efforts, even if it is to simply look there before going on to Ebay to look. And yes I speak from experience, Joe has got in the past almost $1,000 of my money for bikes and parts.They are giving it all they can but without others selling and buying on X-bid it will never take off, and that just leaves Ebay! It just wouldn`t be right, Ebay and online auctions are like computers and Windoze and a little competition isn`t a bad thing. So let`s root for the little guy and give X-bid an even shake. What do ya say? |
| Sorry! but I think I will pass. |
| If Joe knew how to box a bicycle for shipment, it would help. |
| Ok, lets put that problem to rest here and now and forever!! Good thing you said that! You are right. We need a whole page on how to box up a bike for shipment. Told by the sharpest, most experienced, bike packers and shipers. I mean it, lets get together here and do a page. I have read too many incidents of bikes getting damaged. All the good ideas, Lets put up a page! "How to safely package and ship a bike" A lot of us have traveled around the globe and must have good ideas. A pal of mine ships things in mailing tubes so to pervent things from getting crushed. Step by step, photos of the box how to disassemble/ reassemble. Fitting old junk hubs in forks all the tricks. Come on now, Im'a gonna deputize all of youse!! We gonna have us a bicycle packing posse. |
| Hmm. Now that I think of it I have been shipped quite a few items in obviously reused, cut up, hand made looking boxes. But on the upshot, I have never given it much thought as everything has always arrived undamaged. I never figured packing beauty as a factor if nothing was broken. |
| Oh, and the kicker is that with well over a hundred Ebay transactions, it means that most of my raggedy packing came from there. So what difference does it really make which auction site a person gets ugly packaging from? Also if more people used it to sell something that is just laying around anyway, then it wouldn`t be just Joe! Others selling there would possibly attract more traffic? And just stopping to see what`s on there from time to time couldn`t be all that painfull either. |
| The packaging does not have to be good looking it has to be done so that the goods inside do not get damaged, dented, broken bent whatever. |
| 1) Alway use bike boxes (available for free from your local bike shop) 2) Use 2 boxes per bike. One box to put the bike in and the other for cardboard packing 3) Remove the pedals and seat and wrap them in newspaper and put them in a plasic bag. Tie this bag to the frame. 4) Remove the wheels and the fenders. Then bolt the fenders back on to the wheels. 5) Remove the handlebars and stem, and wrap them in newspaper and place in plastic bag. Tie the bag to the frame. 6) Cut out the bottom of your 'donor' box and place it in the bottom of your 'shipping' box. 7) Cut an end off the donor box, and place it in a l-shape in the bottom of the shipping box. 8) Place the frame into the shipping box, placing the front forks on this l-shaped piece. 9) Cut one big side panel of the donor box and place it inside the shipping box next to the frame. 10) Cut about 20 4" x 4" squares using the narrow side sections of the donor box. Punch a hole in the center of each square. Jam these on the ends of the wheel axles to make sure the axles are covered in cardbaord. 11) Place each wheel/fender combo in the shipping box next to the cardboard you inserted in step 9 12) Cut up the remaining large side panel of the donor box into 12" x 12" and larger squares, and double up the protection at any point where the parts might come in contact with eachother. 13) Use tons of packing tape when sealing up the box. It is cheap and your local Staples store has the best deal on packing tape. |
| I prefer bubblewrap to newspaper. I get it FREE from a local camera shop. I also use foam peanuts to fill the dead spaces. I get these FREE from a local pottery shop. I've also found that you can remove the front end of the bike and actually keep most of the bike intact. Of course you should stuff between the fender and wheel with cardboard. This also prevents the fork from poking trough or getting bent. Just a couple of thoughts |
| 'Free' - One of my favorite words. 'Recycle' - Another one of my favorite words. We're all saving bikes from the landfills and getting a second use out of bike boxes and packing materials. Yeah! |
| No mention yet in this thread about what shippers to use. For complete bicycles I use UPS and have had only one problem, which was covered by their good and inexpensive insurance (the first $100 of insurance is free, and every $100 above that costs 35 cents) If you ship a bike to someone using UPS and there is a problem, tell the person you shipped it to to KEEP THE PACKING MATERIALS because UPS may send someone out to see how well the bike was packed. For larger items (mopeds, motorcycles, car fenders) I use rail. For smaller items I use the US Post Office. They give you free boxes for priority mail, shipping is a flat $3.50 up to a couple pounds, and priority shipping arrives at the destination usually within 2 days. |
| What kind of bikes are Breezy and Spud on? http://home.carolina.rr.com/gub/sherwood/3onbikes.jpg Pic from about 1931. |
| Is that a 'W' on the headbadge or is it a crown? |
| z |
| does anyone know where to buy whitewall tire paint dressing, ive called all over to the localauto type stores and no luck, just dead ends. Thanks, for any possible tips, Eric Law. |
| Do a web search for whitewall tire paint. I was looking for all white bicycle tires ands I sat and waded thru all the web listings of junk until I ran across a company that sells whitewall tire paint. It took me awhile but I found it. Off the top of my head I would recommend "Coker Tire" Hemmings Auto news at the bookstore, leaf thru it over coffee. Good luck! |
| where were monark brand coast kings, thunder birds, coast to coast stores, ect. sold in the 1960s? About how much were the loaded down bicycles selling for? thanks for any info. |
| respond be email,I have several wheel gears and c/b arms for skip tooth (1 is a N/D war era i believe) and 1 new dep.D almost complete hub (missing a nut or 2)its clean but frozen with small arm,asking $4.00 ea. for gears/arms $10.00 for the hubset all prices are negotiable (shipping depends on weight) |
| Just found a Western Flyer boys bike. It's in pretty rough shape, but it seems to be all original. Looks like it has no mounting points for a tank, nor any marks from one being clamped on, so I guess it never had one. The serial number is MO 20?0 18 and is stamped on the head tube. I suspect the ? to be an 8 or 9. The head tube is painted red and has a Western flyer decal. There is an orange decal with cream pinstripes wrapped around the top tube. The rest of the frame is a metallic maroon. The seat seems to have plastic rails and a vinyl cover. There are fender mounting points, but no evidence it ever had fenders either. Any ideas what year it was made? |
| Well, Buck....It's pretty hard to say based on this info but let's give it a shot. Assuming everything is original, the plastic railed seat, a head tube decal instead of a badge, and metallic paint would suggest late 60s-70s era. More info might help to narrow it down (tire size, hub type, frame type) And you might flip through the picture database at this site and see if any WF, Murray, or Huffy bikes look similar. If it is a middleweight bike (with 26 X 1.75 " tires), I may have a set of chrome fenders and other parts for it. |
| Thanks for giving it a shot Joel. The frame is styled almost exactly like my Schwinn Panther (http://www.spatialinvestigations.com/bikes/panther.htm) with a few small differences. The biggest of these is the extension of the rear dropout at least a couple of inches rearward beyond the axle placement. I think the headtube decal mentions something about Murray, but I have to head back to the house to check it out. It is definitely a balloon tire - the tires are the same size as on my Panther. The rims have an unusual shape, more of a flat-top pyramid cross-section with offset spokes instead of a box section. The rear hub is Shimano. I have to say that either my Panther had a lot better construction or the Western Flyer saw a lot more abuse, but everything, from paint to running gear, is in much better condition on the Panther. I did find both of these in "outside" storage, although there is no way to know how long each had been there..... |
| That helps... The pointy dropouts are a Murray thing. The frame is a cantilever type, and the rims are drop centers. I have not seen a Shimano hub on anything older than the early 70s. WF may have still had a balloon tire bike avalable at this time but I'll bet it's a middleweight with balloon tires added (so THAT'S where the fenders went). The tires will fit the rims but not the fenders. And yes, they are pretty poorly made compared to a Schwinn. BTW: I think your Panther is a middleweight too. |
| Thanks for the help. But it now occurs to me that I don't know the difference between the styles of bikes. I can't seem to find a FAQ on this site nor the definitions in the glossary. Can someone point me to the old bike FAQ? Joel, you were right about the tire sizes. Both have 26 x 1.75 tires. I'm guessing all of the "accessories" were stripped from the Western Flyer, including the fenders and chainguard. Between the two, I like the Panther better for its aesthetic qualities. However, the Western Flyer fits me a lot better with its wide handlebars and better seat position. Both need some work, so I guess I'd better get busy! Thanks again, Buck |
| Hey, if you like the WF better, then go for it. Collect what you like. I have a Sears/Murray that I ride a lot. Fun bikes. Holler if you need any parts. I've got fenders, chainguards, frames chrome and painted, cranksets, bars, grips,... |
| Chrome & red with tank & tail. email for picture. |
| I'm cleaning up my wife's 1957 schwinn Tyhoon & packing the front bearings & bottom bracket. Need some help concering a coaster brake Schwinn rear hub (brake arm is stamped with 'Schwiin Appproved') with a lubrication fitting in the center of the hub. The fitting has a small cap which pivots out of the way to exposure what looks like a zerc grease fitting. A few basic questions cncering the rear hub and it's lube fitting: 1. What do I put in the hole in the fitting: grease or oil? What type of lubricate? If oil, how do you force it in the hole? 2. Does the old lubricate just flow out the ends of the hub? 3. Should I disassemble the hub to changes the bearings or is it best to add new lubricate in large enough quantites to flush out the old? TIA John Hawrylak Woodstown NJ |
| There is a great Bendix Hub discussion in the archives. It talks about rebuilding, lubing, etc. It took place a couple months ago. Click on the SEARCH Discussion Area Archives above. |
| The answer to your question about lubrication depends on whether you have a single speed coaster brake or a three-speed bike. I think you have a three-speed as my 1963 Typhoon is a three-speed. I don't think Bendix coaster brakes had grease nipples. For three-speed hubs, use oil. You can get three-speed hub oil at your local bicycle shop. DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 is too thin and the solvents in it will rinse off the good grease that might be in the hub already. If you put grease in your three-speed hub, you have made a mess that will take a long time, a lot of work, and a lot of knowledge to clean up. If you have a single speed coaster brake, then use grease. Everybody has there favorite grease. You can get a number of them at your local bike shop. I like Slick 500 brand "One Grease". It lasts a long time, gives superior protection, and is slick as can be which makes the bike ride faster. Mike |